Three Years in Tristan da Cunha | Page 4

boats. But it was done
under considerable difficulty, "a dangerous swell running on to a steep
pebbly beach." Twice the ship's boat filled with water, and once a man
was washed overboard, but was hauled in again. The harmonium was
floating in the sea, but being in a zinc-lined case took no harm. By the
afternoon the sea had quieted down a little, and it was decided that it
would be safe for us to land at the settlement. Personally I was rather
disappointed at this decision; but it gave, we believe, much satisfaction
to the captain, who did not seem at all to like the idea of landing us on
the sea-shore, where we should certainly have had to spend one night,
and might have had to spend several. We steamed to within
three-quarters of a mile of the settlement, and between three and four
o'clock all was in readiness for us to leave the steamer. Farewells were
said, and then we descended to the lower deck, which was crowded
with people. One island boat had already left. The other had been
hauled on to the ship, and it was thought best that we should get into it
and then be lowered. As they began to lift the boat there was an
ominous crack, which caused the chief officer to tell us to get out,
which we quickly did. The boat was then lowered into the sea. One by
one we made the descent of about forty feet down the ship's side on a
swinging rope ladder, holding a rope in each hand, and having one

round our waist, and with an officer going in front of us. We had to
wait for the right moment to jump into the boat which was rising and
falling with the waves. The collie came last; it seemed an interminable
time before he appeared. He was roped, and struggling as for his life;
he managed to clamber back to the deck, but was pushed off again, and
at last reached us in a most terrified condition, and trembling violently.
It was really hard work to hold him in the boat. We were now ready to
pull off. Farewells were waved and cheers given, and I think the last
strains we heard were "For he's a jolly good fellow." It was not easy
getting away from the ship, and it looked rather alarming as we
descended and mounted with the waves. The spray kept dashing over
us, and I felt it running down my neck, but before long we got into
quieter water. The steamer stood by until we were out of danger, and
then we saw it steaming away with the fellow-passengers who had been
so kind to us. Now, indeed, we felt we were leaving the world behind
us. But we could see quite a crowd awaiting us on the shore and others
running down the steep cliff to the beach. We were not allowed to land
until the boat was drawn up on the shingle. There we found nearly all
the colony and a swarm of dogs. We struggled up the bank of shingle
over wet seaweed, and went round and shook hands with the elders.
Seeing we had no hats, and the veils which we were wearing in their
place were wet through, two of the younger women came forward and
offered Ellen and myself a coloured handkerchief to tie over our heads,
and, I think, tied them on. We were much touched by this kind attention
and the welcome it conveyed.
When the boat had been drawn up to its place we sang the doxology,
lingered a little, and then, conducted by the inhabitants, filed up the
steep rocky road to the top of the cliff and on to the grassy common.
The scenery was very fine, towering mountains in the background, the
settlement below with its quaint little stone, thatched houses, and the
sea with its white-crested waves. We were taken to Betty Cotton's
house, the first to be reached. She was there to give us a welcome. We
had to bend our heads as we entered the porch, but to our surprise were
led into quite a spacious room with two windows.
[Illustration: BETTY COTTON'S HOUSE (FRONT), OUR NEW

HOME]
[Illustration: BETTY COTTON'S HOUSE (BACK)]
A large number followed us in. I felt a little shy, so many eyes were
upon us, and all the conversation had to emanate from us. After a time
there was a movement: the men in whose boat we had come went off to
change their wet clothes.
Betty, who was seventy-six and very active, began to prepare the table
for tea, and I must say the prospect of tea was most welcome. There
were spectators of that meal and of many ensuing