Three Years in Tristan da Cunha | Page 3

had found this the best plan. So accordingly we set off from
Southampton on November 18, 1905--my husband, our maid and
myself, taking with us a year's food supply and a very limited amount
of furniture. St. Helena was reached in seventeen days. An interview
with the American Consul, who was courtesy itself, convinced us there
was no likelihood of getting a passage. The whalers that called there
were from New Bedford in America, and none were expected. Our visit,
however, was not entirely in vain, because we had the advantage of
meeting the Bishop of St. Helena, who showed us much kindness, and
of talking over our plans with him. The diocese of St. Helena must be
unique. It consists of the three islands, St. Helena, Ascension, and
Tristan da Cunha. There is no clergyman on the two last, and only the
bishop and three clergymen on St. Helena. No bishop of St. Helena has
as yet landed upon Tristan da Cunha.
We decided to go on to Cape Town by the next steamer, which port we
reached early in January, knowing no one beyond a few
fellow-passengers. Not wishing to go to an hotel we took some rooms
of which we heard from the chaplain of the Seamen's Mission. For the
next few weeks my husband spent his time visiting the different
shipping agencies and the docks, but to no purpose, as no ship would

call at Tristan. We even cabled to a company in England; "No" met our
every inquiry. February had now set in, and we thought that the best
thing to do was to take a small unfurnished house and wait in hope that
a man-of-war would be visiting the island at the end of the year. We
had been about a month in this house when news came from my
sister-in-law in England that the very company to which we had cabled
and which had a monthly service between Table Bay and the River
Plate was ready to take us for a named sum, but only on the
understanding that should the weather be too rough to land us on
Tristan we should have to go on to Buenos Ayres. In spite of the
uncertainty involved it seemed right to accept this offer. We embarked
on the steamer Surrey on March 31, but did not start till next day,
Sunday, as some repairs had to be done to one of the engines. There
went with us Tom Rogers, a Tristanite, who was glad of the
opportunity of returning to his island home.
During our stay at Cape Town we had made many kind friends. Among
them were Mr. Beverley, the rector of Holy Trinity Church, and Mrs.
Beverley. They had helped us in looking for a house, helped in
shopping, helped in packing, insisted on our taking our last meal with
them, and came with us to the steamer. We found the steamer very
crowded, the passengers quite outnumbering the berths, and it was not
until evening that we could procure a cabin. But one thing I much
appreciated: our collie was allowed to be with us during the day. We
had only had him a few days, but he behaved excellently, lying at our
feet most of the time. He came to us as "Whisky," but was promptly
re-named "Rob."
[Illustration: THE PEAK SHOWING ABOVE CLOUDS]

CHAPTER II
On the early morning of the eighth day--it was Palm Sunday--the
mountainous cliffs of Tristan could dimly be discerned. My husband
had gone up on deck two or three times while it was yet dusk to see if
land was visible; while I kept looking out of the porthole, although it

was not a very large outlook. At about four o'clock he dressed and
wrote several letters. At six o'clock, accompanied by Rob, I went on to
the lower deck and could see Tristan enshrouded in mist. At about nine
o'clock we arrived opposite the settlement. A high wind was blowing
and the sea was rough. But this did not prevent the islanders setting off
in two of their canvas boats to board the steamer. It was with great
interest I went on deck to speak to them. I was greeted by an Italian,
who in broken English said--
"It not very comfortable for a lady."
They said it was too rough for us to land at the settlement, but that if
we went back eight or nine miles round to another part of the island
landing would be possible. It did not take long to steam back, but it
took many hours to land the luggage. This was done under the direction
of the third officer by a ship's boat manned by several passengers, who
were most keen to help, and by the two island