Official report of the exploration of the Queen Charlotte Islands | Page 4

and short intervals
of clear weather. The winds are very changeable, those from the north
being the most prevalent and reliable.
* * * * *
Soil.
A light sandy soil, generally prevails over all the islands, except those
large areas covered by rocky mountains. The best lands lie mainly at
the heads of inlets and mouths of the larger streams. There are
occasional tracts of swampy lands containing a deep soft fibrous
deposit resembling peat. A clayey subsoil was seen in a few places near
Cape Ball on the east coast of Graham island.
* * * * *
Agricultural and Grazing Lands.
There are about fifteen thousand acres of clear land upon the islands on
and near the coast including river tide meadows. The largest tracts lie

on the north and east side of Graham Island as more specifically
located in Progress Report Nos. 1 and 3. The mountains embrace
probably twenty thousand acres of open, timberless lands producing
considerable pasture. The grasses of the coast, with the exception on
some meadows, are generally coarse and thin. Graham Island will
support a few hundred cattle, by cutting all its meadows for winter
feeding. The grazing of the interior is very limited, owing to the density
of the forest growth, its numerous swamps, and almost impassable
deadfalls.
* * * * *
Forest Growth.
The forest growth is very dense, and composed chiefly of spruce,
hemlock, red and yellow cedar. I have measured several spruce trees,
and also red cedars from thirty to thirty-three feet in circumference, the
finest specimens having been found on Skidegate and Massett Inlets.
With the exception of those localities, I have seen no place upon the
islands, where the available quantity of these woods is sufficient to
warrant the erection of mills for their manufacture for exportation.
There are fine specimens of yellow cedar of very scattering growth, and
several bodies of considerable size on the borders of the interior lakes
of Graham and Moresby Islands, as hereafter more specifically
described in Progress Report No. 2. Its utilization is of doubtful
practibility, on account of its distance from navigable water, and the
obstructions of the streams flowing therein. There is an occasional alder
bottom, hemlock is quite common, bull pine is found in a few localities,
and yew, dog-wood and crab-apple occur upon all the islands. There is
a dense undergrowth of salal, whortle, salmon, raspberry and other
bushes, and shrubs.
* * * * *
Wild Animals.
Black bear, land otter, marten, weasel and mice, are so far as known,
the only native animals upon the islands. Deer and rabbit have been

placed upon Graham Island, by Alexander McKenzie Esq., of Massett,
and the latter by Rev. Mr. Robinson upon Bare Island in Skidegate Inlet.
The Indians report having seen a species of Caribou, on the northwest
part of Graham Island.
* * * * *
Birds.
The birds of the Queen Charlotte Islands are, eagles, ravens, crows,
hawks, owls, black-birds, blue-jays, humming birds, wrens, swallows
and bats, of the same kind found in other parts of this region.
* * * * *
Resources--Fish, Etc.
The waters surrounding the Queen Charlotte Islands, abound with the
most valuable varieties of fish found in this region. Hallibut are caught
in unlimited quantities, upon banks near all the Indian villages; small
salmon of excellent quality frequent nearly all the larger streams in the
spring, and a much larger, though inferior kind in the fall of the year. I
have seen fine silver salmon at the mouth of the Ya-koun River, but it
is doubtful whether they, or any other marketable salmon, frequent
these waters in great numbers. Immense schools of dog-fish feed on the
shoals off the north and eastern shores of the islands, herring of good
size and excellent quality visit Skidegate and other inlets in such great
quantities that their spawn forms an important article of diet with the
natives. Flat-fish, rock-cod, salmon and brook-trout, clams and mussels
are plentiful.
* * * * *
Black Cod.
Called by the Hydahs, Skil, and known on other parts of the coast as
Pollock and Coal-fish, are caught off the west coast of the islands. They
have been prized hitherto for their oil, which the natives have extracted,

by boiling them in wooden tanks, with heated stones. Samples obtained
by Hon. James G. Swan in 1883, and by Messrs. McGregor and
Combes during the present season, have been pronounced so excellent
by competent judges, that the establishment of a fishery for their
utilization, would seem to be practicable, providing that they can be
taken in sufficient quantities. Messrs. McGregor and Combes caught
110 in three hours, about two miles from shore, opposite Gold Harbor,
Moresby Island, fishing from a canoe manned by three Indians, with
two kelp lines,