Official report of the exploration of the Queen Charlotte Islands | Page 3

of islands and islets contained in the archipelago
the largest and most important except those mentioned are, Louise,
Lyell, Barnaby, Tal-un Kwan, Tanoo, Ramsay, Murchison, Kun-ga,
Faraday and Huxley Islands, all lying off the east coast of Moresby;
Maud and South Islands in Skidegate Inlet; Cub, Edward Kwa-kans,
Wat-hoo-us and Multoos of Masset Inlet and Sound; Frederick and
Nesto on the west coast of Graham and Chathl island between the
entrance waters of Skidegate Channel and the canoe passage
connecting therewith. Of these named Lyell and Louise islands, the
largest, are about 15 miles in length and from five to ten miles in width.
Barnaby, Talun-Kwan, Tanoo and Cub islands are each from eight to
ten miles long. The others are much smaller--from two to three miles in
length.
All of the largest except Cub Island are mountainous, and forest
covered down to their shores. Hot Spring island, situated between
Ramsay and Faraday, though small, deserves mention as containing a
spring of very hot water, slightly impregnated with sulphur and salts.
* * * * *
Rivers.
There are hundreds of streams upon the islands, from ten to twenty-five
miles in length, and from fifteen to one hundred and fifty feet in width.
The Ya-koun River, the largest, rises in Ya-koun Lake, and flowing
northward empties into Massett Harbor, twenty-six miles south of
Massett. It affords uninterrupted navigation for canoes about a mile
and-a-half, and beyond to its source, by means of small dug-outs and
numerous portages. The Naden River, rising in Eden Lake, and

discharging into the head of Naden Harbor, is next in size. It is broader
and deeper than the Ya-koun, navigable for canoes between two
and-a-half and three miles, but is only about ten miles in length. The
river Tlell emptying into Queen Charlotte Sound twenty-five miles
north of Skidegate Inlet, is the principal stream discharging on the outer
coast of the island. Canoes can ascend it two or three miles at high tide.
The Ain River, of Massett Harbor, Jalun of the north coast, Slate Chuck
and Dena of Skidegate Inlet, Skidegate Chuck of Moresby Island, are
among the other more important streams. All of these, and many others
of lesser size, flowing into the numerous inlets, are the resort of salmon
in great numbers. Upon the banks of the Ya-koun, Naden and Ain
Rivers, the natives have obtained their choicest specimens of red cedar
for their canoes, carved poles, and house building. Numerous bear, and
marten traps, in the last stages of decay, were found upon them. They
are generally filled with logs to near their mouth, with rapids and
shoals in their upper courses. Their waters are clear and good, with the
exception of those flowing from the northern and eastern portions of
Graham Island.
* * * * *
Lakes.
Soo-o-uns or Clifford Lake, the source of the Ain River, is so far as
known, the largest body of inland water upon the islands, being from
eight to ten miles in length, and from two to three miles in width.
Yakoun, Eden and Awan Lakes, the sources of the rivers bearing their
respective names are next in size.
* * * * *
Climate.
The climate of the islands, being under the influence of the warm Japan
current, is much milder than upon the coast of the mainland opposite. I
found vegetation more advanced at Massett, and all along the northern
and eastern shores of the islands in April, than at Port Simpson. It is
rarely severely cold, and then only a few days at a time. Snow falls,

according to elevation, from one to five feet in depth, and remains upon
the mountain tops until late in summer, and in a few deep gorges on
their northern slopes throughout the year. It not infrequently reaches
down to the coast, but then generally disappears in a short time. The
temperature is equable, the extreme heat of summer seldom exceeding
seventy-five degrees, Fahrenheit. During the months of April, May and
June, the thermometer ranged from forty deg., at 5 A.M., to about
sixty-five deg., in the middle of the day. I kept no record later than June,
having loaned my instrument to a vessel, whose barometer had become
useless. The annual rainfall varies according to local topography, from
forty-five inches to seventy-five inches, the west coast, especially at the
heads of the inlets, receiving much the largest amount, and the north
and eastern portions of Graham Island the minimum. There were about
fifty-five, clear days in the months of June, July and August of the past
season, which I was informed was about an average one in that respect.
Throughout the winter months the sky is almost continuously overcast,
one rain storm--frequently accompanied, especially on the west coast,
by violent gales--succeeding another, with but few