Himalayan Journals, vol 2 | Page 8

degrees
above that of mid-winter, owing to the now melting snows. I had rather
expected to meet either with a guide, or with some further obstruction
here, but as none appeared, I proceeded onwards as soon as the weather
moderated.
Illustration--PANDANUS. SIKKIM SCREW-PINE.
Higher up, the scenery resembles that of Tchintam on the Tambur: the
banks are so steep as to allow of no road, and the path ascends from the
river, at 1000 feet, to Lathiang village, at 4,800 feet, up a wild, rocky
torrent that descends from Mainom to the Teesta. The cliffs here are
covered with wild plantains and screw-pines (_Pandanus_), 50 feet
high, that clasp the rocks with cable-like roots, and bear one or two
crowns of drooping leaves, 5 feet long: two palms, Rattan (_Calamus_)
and _Areca gracilis,_ penetrate thus far up the Teesta valley, but are
scarcely found further.

From the village the view was superb, embracing the tropical gulley
below, with the flat of Bhomsong deep down in the gorge, its bright
rice-fields gleaming like emeralds amid the dark vegetation that
surrounded it; the Teesta winding to the southward, the pine-clad rocky
top of Mainom, 10,613 feet high, to the south-west, the cone of Mount
Ararat far to the south, to the north black mountains tipped with snow,
and to the east the magnificent snowy range of Chola, girdling the
valley of the Ryott with a diadem of frosted silver. The coolies, each
carrying upwards of 80 lb. load, had walked twelve hours that day, and
besides descending 2000 feet, they had ascended nearly 4000 feet, and
gone over innumerable ups and downs besides.
Beyond Lathiang, a steep and dangerous path runs along the east flank
of Mainom, sometimes on narrow ledges of dry rock, covered with
long grass, sometimes dipping into wooded gullies, full of Edgeworthia
Gardneri and small trees of Andromeda and rhododendron, covered
with orchids* [Especially some species of Sunipia and
_Cirrhopetalum,_ whicb have not yet been introduced into England.] of
great beauty.
Descending to Gorh (4,100 feet), I was met by the Lama of that district,
a tall, disagreeable-looking fellow, who informed me that the road
ahead was impassable. The day being spent, I was obliged to camp at
any rate; after which he visited me in full canonicals, bringing me a
handsome present, but assuring me that he had no authority to let me
advance. I treated him with civility, and regretted my objects being so
imperative, and my orders so clear, that I was obliged to proceed on the
following morning: on which he abruptly decamped, as I suspected, in
order to damage the paths and bridges. He came again at daylight, and
expostulated further; but finding it of no use, he volunteered to
accompany me, officiously offering me the choice of two roads. I asked
for the coolest, knowing full well that it was useless to try and out-wit
him in such matters. At the first stream the bridge was destroyed, but
seeing the planks peeping through the bushes in which they had been
concealed, I desired the Lama to repair it, which he did without
hesitation. So it was at every point: the path was cumbered with limbs
of trees, crossing-stones were removed from the streams, and all natural

difficulties were increased. I kept constantly telling the Lama that as he
had volunteered to show me the road, I felt sure he intended to remove
all obstacles, and accordingly I put him to all the trouble I possibly
could, which he took with a very indifferent grace. When I arrived at
the swinging bridge across the Teesta, I found that the canes were
loosened, and that slips of bamboo, so small as nearly to escape
observation, were ingeniously placed low down over the single bamboo
that formed the footing, intended to trip up the unwary passenger, and
overturn him into the river, which was deep, and with a violent current.
Whilst the Lama was cutting these, one of my party found a charcoal
writing on a tree, announcing the speedy arrival from the Rajah of my
old guide, Meepo; and he shortly afterwards appeared, with instructions
to proceed with me, though not to the Tibetan frontier. The lateness of
the season, the violence of the rains, and the fears, on the Rajah's part,
that I might suffer from fever or accident, were all urged to induce me
to return, or at least only to follow the west branch of the Teesta to
Kinchinjunga. These reasons failing, I was threatened with Chinese
interference on the frontier. All these objections I overruled, by
refusing to recognise any instructions that were not officially
communicated to the Superintendent of Dorjiling.
The Gorh Lama here took leave of me: he was a friend of the Dewan,
and was rather surprised to find