Denmark | Page 3

canals, running
up from the sea as they do into the heart of the city, make it delightfully
refreshing on a hot day. Nyhavn, for instance, which opens out of the
Kongen's Nytorv--the fashionable centre of the town--is one of the
quaintest of water-streets. The cobbled way on either side of the water,
the curious little shops with sailors' and ships' wares, old gabled houses,
fishing and cargo boats with their forests of masts, the little puffing
motor-boats plying to and fro--all serve to make a distinctive picture.
On another canal-side the fish-market is held every morning. A Danish
fish-market is not a bit like other fish-markets, for the Dane must buy
his fish alive, and the canal makes this possible. The fishing-smacks
line up the whole side of the quay; these have perforated wooden
boat-shaped tanks dragging behind them containing the lively fish. The
market-women sit on the quay, surrounded by wooden tubs, which are
half-filled with water, containing the unfortunate fish. A trestle-table,
on which the fish are killed and cleaned, completes the equipment of
the fish-wives. The customers scrutinize the contents of the tub, choose
a fish as best they can from the leaping, gasping multitude, and its fate
is sealed. When the market-women require more fish, the perforated
tank is raised from the canal, and the fish extracted with a landing-net
and deposited in their tubs. Small fish only can be kept alive in tanks
and tubs; the larger kinds, such as cod, are killed and sold in the
ordinary way. This market is not at all a pleasant sight, so it is better to
turn our backs on it, and pass on to the fragrant flower-market.
Here the famous Amager women expose their merchandise. This
market square is a gay spectacle, for the Dane is fond of flowers, and
the Amager wife knows how to display her bright blooms to advantage.
These vendors are notable characters. They are the descendants of the
Dutch gardeners brought over by Christian II. to grow fruit and
vegetables for Copenhagen, and settled on the fertile island of Amager
which abuts on the city. Every morning these Amager peasants may be
seen driving their laden carts across the bridge which joins their island
to the mainland. These genial, stout, but sometimes testy Amager wives
have it all their own way in the market-place, and are clever in
attracting and befooling a customer. So it has become a saying, if you

look sceptical about what you are told, the "story-teller" will say, "Ask
Amager mother!" which means, "Believe as much as you like." These
women still wear their quaint costume: bulky petticoats, clean checked
apron, shoulder-shawl, and poke-bonnets with white kerchief over them;
and the merry twinkle of satisfaction in the old face when a good
bargain has been completed against the customer's inclination is quite
amusing. These interesting old characters are easily irritated, and this
the little Copenhageners know full well. When stalls are being packed
for departure, a naughty band of urchins will appear round the corner
and call out:
"Amager mother, Amager mo'er, Give us carrots from your store; You
are so stout and roundabout, Please tell us if you find the door Too
small to let you through!"
The Amager wife's wrath is soon roused, and she is often foolish
enough to try and move her bulky proportions somewhat quicker than
usual in order to catch the boys. This of course she never manages to do,
for they dart away in all directions. By this means the Amager woman
gets a little much-needed exercise, the boys a great deal of amusement.
[Illustration: THE FLOWER MARKET, COPENHAGEN.]
Sunday is a fête-day in Copenhagen, and the Dane feels no obligation
to attend a Church service before starting out on his Sunday expedition.
A day of leisure means a day of pleasure to the Copenhagener. The
State helps and encourages him by having cheap fares, and good but
inexpensive performances at the theatre and places of entertainment on
Sunday. Even the poorest people manage to spare money for this
periodical outing, mother and children taking their full share in the
simple pleasures of the day. The Copenhagener looks forward to this
weekly entertainment, and longs for the fresh air. This is not surprising,
for many homes are stuffy, ventilation and open windows not seeming
a necessity. A fine summer Sunday morning sees a leisurely stream of
people--the Danes never hurry themselves--making for tram, train, or
motor-boat, which will carry them off to the beautiful woods and
shores lying beyond the city. Basking in the sunshine, or enjoying a
stroll through the woods, feasting on the contents of their picnic baskets,

with a cup of coffee or glass of pilsener at a café where music is always
going on, they spend a thoroughly