Denmark | Page 2

the passing ships as they glide in and out of the Baltic.
The broad quays are splendidly built, lined with fine warehouses, and

present a busy scene of commercial activity. The warships lying at their
moorings in the Sound denote that this is the station of the fleet; here
also we see the country's only fortress--the formidable bulwarks which
surround the harbour.
Kjöbenhavn in Danish means "merchants' harbour," and as early as the
eleventh century it was a trading centre for foreign merchants attracted
by the rich supply of herrings found by the Danish fishermen in the
Baltic. Bishop Absalon was the founder of the city. This warrior
Bishop strongly fortified the place, in 1167, on receiving the little
settlement from King Valdemar the Great, and had plenty to do to hold
it, as it was continually harassed by pirates and the Wends. These,
however, found the Bishop more than a match for them. His outposts
would cry, "The Wends are coming!" and the Bishop would leave his
preaching, his bed, or anything else he might be doing, gather his
forces together, and fight gallantly for his little stronghold. He perhaps
recognized that this might one day be the key to the Baltic, which it has
since become.
This city, therefore, is not a new one, but bombardment and
conflagrations are responsible for its modern appearance. Fortunately,
some of the handsome edifices raised during the reign of Christian IV.
(1588-1648) still remain to adorn the city. This monarch was a great
architect, sailor, warrior, and King, and is one of the most striking
figures in Danish history. He was beloved by his people, and did much
for his kingdom. The buildings planned and erected during this
monarch's reign are worthy of our admiration. The beautiful Exchange,
with its curious tower formed by four dragons standing on their heads,
and entwining their tails into a dainty spire; Rosenborg Castle, with its
delicate pinnacles; the famous "Runde Taarn" (Round Tower), up
whose celebrated spiral causeway Peter the Great is said to have driven
a carriage and pair, are amongst the most noteworthy. The originality in
design of the spires and towers of Copenhagen is quite remarkable. Vor
Frelsers Kirke, or Church of Our Saviour, has an outside staircase,
running round the outside of its spire, which leads up to a figure of our
Saviour, and from this height you get a fine view of the city. The tower
of the fire-station, in which the fire-hose hangs at full length; the

copper-sheathed clock and bell tower--the highest in Denmark--of the
Town Hall; the Eiffel-like tower of the Zoo, are among the most
singular. In all these towers there is a beautiful blending of copper and
gold, which gives a distinctive and attractive character to the city. Other
prominent features are the pretty fish-scale tiling, and the copper and
bronze roofs of many of the buildings, with their "stepped" gables.
Charming, too, are the city's many squares and public gardens, canals
with many-masted ships making an unusual spectacle in the streets. But,
after all, it is perhaps the innate gaiety of the Copenhagener which
impresses you most. You feel, indeed, that these kindly Danes are a
little too content for national development; but their light-hearted way
of viewing life makes them very pleasant friends, and their hospitality
is one of their chief characteristics. Every lady at the head of a Danish
household is an excellent cook and manager, as well as being an
agreeable and intelligent companion. The Copenhagener is a "flat"
dweller, and the dining-room is the largest and most important room in
every home. The Dane thinks much of his dinner, and dinner-parties are
the principal form of entertainment. They joke about their appreciation
of the good things of the table, and say, "a turkey is not a good
table-bird, as it is a little too much for one Dane, but not enough for
two!" A very pleasant side of Copenhagen life has sprung up from this
appreciation, for the restaurants and cafés are numerous, and cater well
for their customers. While the Dane eats he must have music, which,
like the food, must be good; he is very critical, and a good judge of
both. This gay café and restaurant life is one of the fascinations of
Denmark's "too-large heart," as this pleasant capital is called by its
people.
CHAPTER II
MERRY COPENHAGEN--II
The climate of Copenhagen is delightful in summer, but quite the
reverse in winter. Andersen says "the north-east wind and the sunbeams
fought over the 'infant Copenhagen,' consequently the wind and the
'mud-king' reign in winter, the sunbeams in summer, and the latter
bring forgetfulness of winter's hardships." Certainly, when the summer

comes, the sunshine reigns supreme, and makes Copenhagen bright and
pleasant for its citizens. Then the many water-ways and