A Bibliographical, Antiquarian and Picturesque Tour in France and Germany, Volume Two | Page 8

that
this very tasteful structure--which seems to be built of the choicest
stone--should be so far removed from what may be called the
fashionable part of the city. It is in consequence reluctantly visited by
our countrymen; although a lover of botany, or a florist, will not fail to
procure two or three roots of the different species of tulips, which, it is
allowed, blow here in uncommon luxuriance and splendor.
The preceding is, I am aware, but a feeble and partial sketch--compared
with what a longer residence, and a temperature more favourable to
exercise (for we are half scorched up with heat, positive and
reflected)--would enable me to make. But "where are my favourite
ECCLESIASTICAL EDIFICES?" methinks I hear you exclaim. Truly
you shall know as much as I know myself; which is probably little
enough. Of NOTRE-DAME, the west front, with its marygold window,
is striking both from its antiquity and richness. It is almost black from
age; but the alto-relievos, and especially those above the doors, stand
out in almost perfect condition. These ornaments are rather fine of their
kind. There is, throughout the whole of this west front, a beautiful
keeping; and the towers are, here, somewhat more endurable--and
therefore somewhat in harmony. Over the north-transept door, on the
outside, is a figure of the Virgin--once holding the infant Jesus in her
arms. Of the latter, only the feet remain. The drapery of this figure is in
perfectly good taste: a fine specimen of that excellent art which
prevailed towards the end of the XIIIth century. Above, is an
alto-relievo subject of the slaughter of the Innocents. The soldiers are in
quilted armour. I entered the cathedral from the western door, during
service-time. A sight of the different clergymen engaged in the office,
filled me with melancholy--and made me predict sad things of what
was probably to come to pass! These clergymen were old, feeble,

wretchedly attired in their respective vestments--and walked and sung
in a tremulous and faltering manner. The architectural effect in the
interior is not very imposing: although the solid circular pillars of the
nave--the double aisles round the choir--and the old basso-relievo
representations of the life of Christ, upon the exterior of the walls of the
choir--cannot fail to afford an antiquary very singular satisfaction. The
choir appeared to be not unlike that of St. Denis.
The next Gothic church, in size and importance, is that of St.
GERVAIS-- situated to the left, in the Rue de Monceau. It has a very
lofty nave, but the interior is exceedingly flat and divested of ornament.
The pillars have scarcely any capitals. The choir is totally destitute of
effect. Some of the stained glass is rich and old, but a great deal has
been stolen or demolished during the Revolution. There is a good large
modern picture, in one of the side chapels to the right: and yet a more
modern one, much inferior, on the opposite side. In almost every side
chapel, and in the confessionals, the priests were busily engaged in the
catechetical examination of young people previous to the first
Communion on the following sabbath, which was the Fête-Dieu. The
western front is wholly Grecian--perhaps about two hundred years old.
It is too lofty for its width--but has a grand effect, and is justly much
celebrated. Yet the situation of this fine old Gothic church is among the
most wretched of those in Paris. It is preserved from suffocation, only
by holding it head so high. Next in importance to St. Gervais, is the
Gothic church of St. EUSTACHE: a perfect specimen, throughout, of
that adulterated style of Gothic architecture (called its _restoration!_)
which prevailed at the commencement of the reign of Francis I. Faulty,
and even meretricious, as is the whole of the interior, the choir will not
fail to strike you with surprise and gratification. It is light, rich, and
lofty. This church is very large, but not so capacious as St.
Gervais--while situation is, if possible, still more objectionable.
Let me not forget my two old favourite churches of ST. GERMAIN
DES PRÈS, _and St. Geneviève_; although of the latter I hardly know
whether a hasty glimpse, both of the exterior and interior, be not
sufficient; the greater part having been destroyed during the
Revolution.[8] The immediate vicinity of the former is sadly choaked

by stalls and shops--and the west-front has been cruelly covered by
modern appendages. It is the church dearest to antiquaries; and with
reason.[9] I first visited it on a Sunday, when that part of the Service
was performed which required the fullest intonations of the organ. The
effect altogether was very striking. The singular pillars-- of which the
capitals are equally massive and grotesque, being sometimes composed
of human beings, and sometimes of birds and beasts,