A Bibliographical, Antiquarian and Picturesque Tour in France and Germany, Volume Two | Page 7

of _St. Denis_ and _St. Martin_; but be sure that you
choose dry weather for the excursion. Two hours of heavy rain (as I
once witnessed) would cause a little rushing rivulet in the centre of
these streets--and you could only pass from one side to the other by
means of a plank. The absence of _trottoirs_--- or foot-pavement--is
indeed here found to be a most grievous defect. With the exception of
the Place Vendome and the Rue de la Paix, where something like this
sort of pavement prevails, Paris presents you with hardly any thing of
the kind; so that, methinks, I hear you say, "what though your Paris be
gayer and more grand, our London is larger and more commodious."
Doubtless this is a fair criticism. But from the _Marché des
Innocens_--a considerable space, where they sell chiefly fruit and
vegetables,[6]--(and which reminded me something of the
market-places of Rouen) towards the _Hôtel de Ville_ and the _Hôtel
de Soubise_, you will meet with many extremely curious and
interesting specimens of house and street scenery: while, as I before
observed to you, the view of the houses and streets in the _Isle St.
Louis_, from the Pont des Ars, the Quai de Conti, the Pont Neuf, or the
_Quai des Augustins_--or, still better, the _Pont Royal_--is absolutely
one of the grandest and completest specimens of metropolitan scenery
which can be contemplated. Once more: go as far as the _Pont Louis
XVI._, cast your eye down to the left; and observe how magnificently
the Seine is flanked by the Thuileries and the Louvre. Surely, it is but a
sense of justice and a love of truth which compel an impartial observer
to say, that this is a view of regal and public splendor--without a
parallel in our own country!
The Rue de Richelieu is called the Bond-street of Paris. Parallel with it,
is the Rue Vivienne. They are both pleasant streets; especially the

former, which is much longer, and is rendered more striking by
containing some of the finest hotels in Paris. Hosiers, artificial flower
makers, clock-makers, and jewellers, are the principal tradesmen in the
Rue de Richelieu; but it has no similarity with Bond-street. The houses
are of stone, and generally very lofty--while the _Academie de
Musique_[7] and the _Bibliothèque du Roi_ are public buildings of
such consequence and capacity (especially the former) that it is absurd
to name the street in which they are situated with our own. The Rue
Vivienne is comparatively short; but it is pleasing, from the number of
flowers, shrubs, and fruits, brought thither from the public markets for
sale. No doubt the Place Vendome and the Rue de la Paix claim
precedence, on the score of magnificence and comfort, to either of
these, or to any other streets; but to my taste there is nothing (next to
the Boulevards) which is so thoroughly gratifying as the Rue de
Richelieu. Is it because some few hundred thousand printed volumes
are deposited therein? But of all these, the _Rue St. Honoré_, with its
faubourg so called, is doubtless the most distinguished and
consequential. It seems to run from west to east entirely through Paris;
and is considered, on the score of length, as more than a match for our
Oxford street.
It may be so; but if the houses are loftier, the street is much narrower;
and where, again, is your foot-pavement--to protect you from the
eternal movements of fiacre, cabriolet, voiture and diligence? Besides,
the undulating line of our Oxford-street presents, to the tasteful
observer, a sight--perfectly unrivalled of its kind--especially if it be
witnessed on a clear night, when its thousand gas-lighted lamps below
emulate the starry lustre of the heavens above! To an inexperienced eye,
this has the effect of enchantment. Add to the houses of Oxford-street
but two stories, and the appearance of this street, in the day time, would
be equally imposing: to which add--what can never be added--the
atmosphere of Paris!
You will remark that, all this time, I have been wholly silent about the
Palace de Luxembourg, with its beautiful though flat gardens--of tulips,
jonquils, roses, wall flowers, lilac and orange trees--its broad and
narrow walks--its terraces and statues. The façade, in a line with the

Rue Vaugirard, has a grand effect--in every point of view. But the
south front, facing the gardens, is extremely beautiful and magnificent;
while across the gardens, and in front,--some short English mile--stands
the OBSERVATORY. Yet fail not to visit the interior square of the
palace, for it is well worth your notice and admiration. This building is
now the Chambre des Pairs. Its most celebrated ornament was the
famous suite of paintings, by Rubens, descriptive of the history of
Henry IV. These now adorn the gallery of the Louvre. It is a pity