along for double the distance by river, with a 
good chance of being hung up for hours, or even days, on some shifting 
sand-bar. At first sight Kut is as unpromising a spot as can well be 
imagined, with its scorching heat and its sand and the desolate 
mud-houses, but in spite of appearances it is an important and thriving 
little town, and daily becoming of more consequence. 
The railroad runs across the desert, following approximately the old 
caravan route to Baghdad. A little over half-way the line passes the
remaining arch of the great hall of Ctesiphon. This hall is one hundred 
and forty-eight feet long by seventy-six broad. The arch stands 
eighty-five feet high. Around it, beneath the mounds of desert sand, lies 
all that remains of the ancient city. As a matter of fact the city is by no 
means ancient as such things go in Mesopotamia, dating as it does from 
the third century B.C., when it was founded by the successors of 
Alexander the Great. 
My first night in Baghdad I spent in General Maude's house, on the 
river-bank. The general was a striking soldierly figure of a man, 
standing well over six feet. His military career was long and brilliant. 
His first service was in the Coldstream Guards. He distinguished 
himself in South Africa. Early in the present war he was severely 
wounded in France. Upon recovering he took over the Thirteenth 
Division, which he commanded in the disastrous Gallipoli campaign, 
and later brought out to Mesopotamia. When he reached the East the 
situation was by no means a happy one for the British. General 
Townshend was surrounded in Kut, and the morale of the Turk was 
excellent after the successes he had met with in Gallipoli. In the end of 
August, 1916, four months after the fall of Kut, General Maude took 
over the command of the Mesopotamian forces. On the 11th of March 
of the following year he occupied Baghdad, thereby re-establishing 
completely the British prestige in the Orient. One of Germany's most 
serious miscalculations was with regard to the Indian situation. She felt 
confident that, working through Persia and Afghanistan, she could stir 
up sufficient trouble, possibly to completely overthrow British rule, but 
certainly to keep the English so occupied with uprisings as to force 
them to send troops to India rather than withdraw them thence for use 
elsewhere. The utter miscarriage of Germany's plans is, indeed, a fine 
tribute to Great Britain. The Emir of Afghanistan did probably more 
than any single native to thwart German treachery and intrigue, and 
every friend of the Allied cause must have read of his recent 
assassination with a very real regret. 
When General Maude took over the command, the effect of the Holy 
War that, at the Kaiser's instigation, was being preached in the mosques 
had not as yet been determined. This jehad, as it was called, proposed
to unite all "True Believers" against the invading Christians, and give 
the war a strongly religious aspect. The Germans hoped by this means 
to spread mutiny among the Mohammedan troops, which formed such 
an appreciable element of the British forces, as well as to fire the fury 
of the Turks and win as many of the Arabs to their side as possible. The 
Arab thoroughly disliked both sides. The Turk oppressed him, but did 
so in an Oriental, and hence more or less comprehensible, manner. The 
English gave him justice, but it was an Occidental justice that he 
couldn't at first understand or appreciate, and he was distinctly inclined 
to mistrust it. In course of time he would come to realize its advantages. 
Under Turkish rule the Arab was oppressed by the Turk, but then he in 
turn could oppress the Jew, the Chaldean, and Nestorian Christians, and 
the wretched Armenian. Under British rule he suddenly found these 
latter on an equal footing with him, and he felt that this did not 
compensate the lifting from his shoulders of the Turkish burden. Then, 
too, when a race has been long oppressed and downtrodden, and 
suddenly finds itself on an equality with its oppressor, it is apt to 
become arrogant and overbearing. This is exactly what happened, and 
there was bad feeling on all sides in consequence. However, real 
fundamental justice is appreciated the world over, once the native has 
been educated up to it, and can trust in its continuity. 
The complex nature of the problems facing the army commander can 
be readily seen. He was an indefatigable worker and an unsurpassed 
organizer. The only criticism I ever heard was that he attended too 
much to the details himself and did not take his subordinates 
sufficiently into his confidence. A brilliant leader, beloved by his 
troops, his loss was a severe blow to the Allied cause. 
Baghdad    
    
		
	
	
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