Travels in Alaska

Travels in Alaska, by John Muir

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Title: Travels in Alaska
Author: John Muir
Release Date: January, 2005 [EBook #7345] [Yes, we are more than
one year ahead of schedule] [This file was first posted on April 18,

2003] [Date last updated: August 28, 2006]
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*** START OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK TRAVELS
IN ALASKA ***

Produced by Harold Wood and Andrew Sly. Thanks to the John Muir
Exhibit for making this eBook available.
http://www.sierraclub.org/johnmuirexhibit/

Travels in Alaska
by John Muir
Contents
Preface

Part I. The Trip of 1879
I. Puget Sound and British Columbia II. Alexander Archipelago and the
Home I found in Alaska III. Wrangell Island and Alaska Summers IV.
The Stickeen River V. A Cruise in the Cassiar VI. The Cassiar Trail
VII. Glenora Peak VIII. Exploration of the Stickeen Glaciers IX. A
Canoe Voyage to Northward X. The Discovery of Glacier Bay XI. The
Country of the Chilcats XII. The Return to Fort Wrangell XIII. Alaska
Indians

Part II. The Trip of 1880
XIV. Sum Dum Bay XV. From Taku River to Taylor Bay XVI. Glacier
Bay
Part III. The Trip of 1890
XVII. In Camp at Glacier Bay XVIII. My Sled-Trip on the Muir
Glacier XIX. Auroras
Glossary of Words in the Chinook Jargon

Preface
Forty years ago John Muir wrote to a friend; "I am hopelessly and
forever a mountaineer. . . . Civilization and fever, and all the
morbidness that has been hooted at me, have not dimmed my glacial
eyes, and I care to live only to entice people to look at Nature's
loveliness." How gloriously he fulfilled the promise of his early
manhood! Fame, all unbidden, wore a path to his door, but he always
remained a modest, unspoiled mountaineer. Kindred spirits, the greatest
of his time, sought him out, even in his mountain cabin, and felt
honored by his friendship. Ralph Waldo Emerson urged him to visit
Concord and rest awhile from the strain of his solitary studies in the
Sierra Nevada. But nothing could dislodge him from the glacial
problems of the high Sierra; with passionate interest he kept at his task.
"The grandeur of these forces and their glorious results," he once wrote,
"overpower me and inhabit my whole being. Waking or sleeping, I
have no rest. In dreams I read blurred sheets of glacial writing, or
follow lines of cleavage, or struggle with the difficulties of some
extraordinary rock-form."
There is a note of pathos, the echo of an unfulfilled hope, in the record

of his later visit to Concord. "It was seventeen years after our parting
on Wawona ridge that I stood beside his [Emerson's] grave under a pine
tree on the hill above Sleepy Hollow. He had gone to higher Sierras,
and, as I fancied, was again waving his hand in friendly recognition."
And now John Muir has followed his friend of other days to the "higher
Sierras." His earthly remains lie among trees planted by his own hand.
To the pine tree of Sleepy Hollow answers a guardian sequoia in the
sunny Alhambra Valley.
In 1879 John Muir went to Alaska for the first time. Its stupendous
living glaciers aroused his unbounded interest, for they enabled him to
verify his theories of glacial action. Again and again he returned to this
continental laboratory of landscapes. The greatest of the tide-water
glaciers appropriately commemorates his name. Upon this book of
Alaska travels, all but finished before his unforeseen departure, John
Muir expended the last months of his life. It was begun soon after his
return from Africa in 1912. His eager leadership of the ill-fated
campaign to save his beloved Hetch-Hetchy Valley from commercial
destruction seriously interrupted his labors. Illness, also, interposed
some checks as he worked with characteristic care and thoroughness
through the great