Three Years in Tristan da Cunha | Page 9

present except old Caroline Swain, who is an invalid; we were
seventy-four in all. We had a very simple and short service, Graham
explaining as he went along what we were to do. Every one was most
reverent and all knelt. There were four hymns, and how they enjoyed
the singing of them! It was surprising how well they got on. The
women all said, "Good-morning, marm," as they entered the church. At
first it was difficult to understand what they said, but now I am more
able to do so. On our way home we met Betty Cotton, who said, "It's
the best 'Sunday' I have had since Mr. Dodgson left." She is a dear old
body, and is making it her mission to look after us.
[Illustration: THE WATERFALL]
People have been in and out most of the day. Graham proposed to some
men who came to see him that they should take a walk up the mountain,
so they went up the Goat Ridge, which is quite near, and climbed about
nine hundred feet. Ellen and I went down to the seashore where there is
a strong smell of seaweed. The sand is black, which is owing to the
volcanic origin of Tristan. The cliffs at this spot are lovely with
overhanging green, and with a very pretty waterfall, caused by the Big
Watering finding its way over the cliff into the sea. This waterfall
marks the settlement landing-place. Rebekah Swain, aged twenty-eight,
came up and asked if it would be "insulting" if she came and sat by us.
I had my hymn-book with tunes, and so we chose the hymns for Easter
Sunday. She held the pages down as I turned them over, for the wind
was blowing, and told me what hymns the people knew. She is the

daughter of Mrs. Susan Swain, who has been teaching the children. She
took us for a walk along the shore and by a new way up the cliff.
Seeing Ellen was tired, she said, "If you will take my arm, I will take
you along." She also said, "The missus can go quick," as she saw me
clambering up the cliff. She invited us up to her mother's house, who
insisted upon our having a cup of tea, which was drunk in the presence
of many spectators, for the room soon began to fill. Mrs. Swain showed
me letters which she had received from ladies in England. She herself
cannot write. When I got home I found Graham entertaining Mr. and
Mrs. Lavarello. They had come with milk and a loaf of bread. They
bake the loaf in an iron pot with a lid, on which they light the fire.
Lavarello is one of the shipwrecked Italians. Ruth Swain, a girl of
seventeen, next came in, then two little boys, and finally Mrs. Repetto.
The people have so intermarried, and there are so many of the same
name, that it is difficult to distinguish one person from another, but we
are learning to do so gradually. There is an intense eagerness among the
elders that their children shall get some "larning." The remaining
luggage has not yet come.
_Saturday, April_ l4.--It has been a wet day. The men have been very
busy in the sitting-room, so we spent most of our time in the bedroom,
which is more than half-full of cases and baggage. Repetto has just had
supper with us, and has been telling all about Captain Kerry's visit in
the Pandora.

CHAPTER V
On Easter Sunday we had eight o'clock Communion; twelve were
present. As there are no Communion rails we knelt in front of two
forms. Almost every family has provided a form which just gives the
necessary seating accommodation. The next service was at 10:30. I am
so glad we brought prayer-books and hymn-books, as not many seem to
possess them. We were again struck with the heartiness of the singing.
Graham spoke a few simple words on the Resurrection. All the babies
were brought to church, and there was a little crying. There was one
very fat child of thirteen months that has something wrong with it, for it

cannot sit up. I noticed also a man with no forearms, but with terribly
deformed fingers where the elbow would be.
This afternoon we had baptisms; there were four children to be baptized,
and a fifth to be received into the congregation. One of the mothers, a
Mrs. Hagan, came in before the service to ask if Ellen "would come
along with her to church." Graham could not make out what she meant;
it was, would Ellen be god-mother to her baby boy. It was a large
assembly that stood round the small font. The children were young
enough for Graham to take in