The Stranger in France | Page 6

and that the order which we
received from the government boat, was given for the purpose of
compelling the captain to incur, and consequently to pay, the anchorage

dues. In a moment we were beset by a parcel of men and boys, half
naked, and in wooden shoes, who hallooing and "sacre dieuing" each
other most unmercifully, began, without further ceremony, to seize
upon every trunk within their reach, which they threw into their boats
lying alongside.
By a well-timed rap upon the knuckles of one of these marine
functionaries, we prevented our luggage from sharing the same fate. It
turned out, that there was a competition for carrying our trunks on
shore, for the sake of an immoderate premium, which they expected to
receive, and which occasioned our being assailed in this violent manner.
Our fellow-passengers were obliged to go on shore with these
vociferous watermen, who had the impudence and inhumanity to
charge them two livres each, for conveying them to the landing steps, a
short distance of about fifty yards. Upon their landing, we were much
pleased to observe that the people offered them neither violence nor
insult. They were received with a sullen silence, and a lane was made
for them to pass into the town. The poor old clergyman who had
survived the passage, was left on board, in the care of two benevolent
persons, until he could be safely and comfortably conveyed on shore.
We soon afterwards followed our fellow-passengers in the captain's
boat, by which plan we afforded these extortioners a piece of salutary
information, very necessary to be made known to them, that although
we were english, we were not to be imposed upon. I could not help
thinking it rather unworthy of our neighbours to exact from us such
heavy port dues, when our english demands of a similar nature, are so
very trifling. For such an import, a vessel of the republic, upon its
arrival in any of the english ports, would only pay a few shillings.
Perhaps this difference will be equalized in some shape, by the
impending commercial treaty, otherwise, a considerable partial
advantage will accrue to the french from their passage packets. Upon
our landing, and entering the streets, I was a little struck with the
appearance of the women, who were habited in a coarse red camlet
jacket, with a high apron before, long flying lappets to their caps, and
were mounted upon large heavy wooden shoes, upon each of which a
worsted tuft was fixed, in rude imitation of a rose. The appearance and
clatter of these sabots, as they are called, leave upon the mind an

impression of extreme poverty and wretchedness.
They are, however, more favoured than the lower order of females in
Scotland. Upon a brisk sprightly chamber-maid entering my room one
day at an inn in Glasgow, I heard a sound which resembled the
pattering of some web-footed bird, when in the act of climbing up the
miry side of a pond. I looked down upon the feet of this bonny lassie,
and found that their only covering was procured from the mud of the
high street--adieu! to the tender eulogies of the pastoral reed! I have
never thought of a shepherdess since with pleasure.
I could not help observing the ease, dexterity, and swiftness, with
which a single man conveyed all our luggage, which was very heavy, to
the custom-house, and afterwards to the inn, in a wheelbarrow, which
differed from ours, only in being larger, and having two elastic handles
of about nine feet long. At the custom-house, notwithstanding what the
english papers have said of the conduct observed here, we were very
civilly treated, our boxes were only just opened, and some of our
packages were not examined at all. Away we had them whirled, to the
Hôtel de la Paix, the front of which looks upon the wet-dock, and is
embellished with a large board, upon which is recorded, in yellow
characters, as usual, the superior advantages of this house over every
other hôtel in Havre. Upon our arrival, we were ushered up a large dirty
staircase into a lofty room, upon the first floor, all the windows of
which were open, divided, as they always are in France, in the middle,
like folding doors; the floor was tiled, a deal table, some common rush
chairs, two very fine pier glasses, and chandeliers to correspond,
composed our motley furniture. I found it to be a good specimen of
french inns, in general. We were followed by our hostess, the porter,
two cooks, with caps on their heads, which had once been white, and
large knives in their hands, who were succeeded by two chamber-maids,
all looking in the greatest hurry and confusion, and all talking together,
with a velocity,