The Romance of Isabel Lady Burton, vol 2 | Page 2

be better imagined than
described. Among these apricot orchards I had a capital stable for
twelve horses, and a good room attached to it for any number of
_saises_, or grooms; and beyond that again was a little garden, through
which the river wended its way. So much for the exterior. Now to come
indoors. As one entered, first of all came the courtyard, boldly painted
in broad stripes of red and white and blue, after the manner of all the
courtyards in Damascus. Here too splashed the fountain, and all around
were orange, lemon, and jessamine trees. Two steps took one to the
_liwan_, a raised room open one side to the court, and spread with
carpets, divans, and Eastern stuffs. It was here, in the summer, I was
wont to receive. On the right side of the court was a dining-room, when
it was too hot to live upstairs. All the rest of the space below was left to
the servants and offices. Upstairs the rooms ran around two sides of the
courtyard. A long terrace occupied the other two sides, joining the
rooms at either end. This terrace formed a pleasant housetop in the cool
evenings. We spread it with mats and divans, and used to sit among the
flowers and shrubs, and look over Damascus and sniff the desert air
beyond.
Of course this house was not the Consulate, which was in the city,
close to the Serai, or Government House.
I think the charm of our house lay chiefly in the gardens around it. We
made a beautiful arbour in the garden opposite--a garden of roses and
jessamine; and we made it by lifting up overladen vines and citrons,
and the branches of lemon and orange trees, and supporting them on a
framework, so that no sun could penetrate their luxuriant leafage. We
put a divan in this arbour, which overlooked the rushing river; and that

and the housetop were our favourite places to smoke on cool summer
evenings.
By this time you will probably have discovered my love for animals,
and as soon as I had arranged our house at Damascus the first thing I
did was to indulge in my hobby of collecting a menagerie. First of all
we bought some horses, three-quarter-breds and half-breds.
Thorough-bred Arabs, especially mares, were too dear for our stable,
and would have made us an object of suspicion. In the East, where
there are official hands not clean of bribes, an Arab mare is a a
favourite bribe, and I had many such offers before I had been at
Damascus long; but I refused them all. Richard always gave me entire
command of the stable, and so it was my domain. Living in solitude as
I did very much, I discovered how companionable horses could be.
There was no speech between us, but I knew everything they said and
thought and felt, and they knew everything I said to them. I did not
confine my purchases entirely to horses. I bought a camel and a
snow-white donkey, which latter is the most honourable mount for
grand visiting. I also picked up a splendid Persian cat in the bazars, and
I had brought over with me a young pet St. Bernard dog, two brindle
bull-terriers and two of the Yarborough breed, and I added later a
Kurdish pup. I bought three milk goats for the house, and I had presents
of a pet lamb and a nimr (leopard), which became the idol of the house.
The domestic hen-yard was duly stocked with all kinds of fowls,
turkeys, geese, ducks, and guinea-fowls, and in the garden and on the
terrace and the house-top I kept my pigeons. This collection was my
delight. I cannot say that they were a happy family. After a time I
trained them into living together in something like harmony, but it took
a very long time. I added to my family also from time to time
half-famished dogs which I had rescued from the streets, or ill-treated
and broken-down donkeys, which I purchased from some cruel master.
In the course of time it became a truly wonderful gathering.
The animals in the East seem to me to be almost more intelligent than
those at home. They certainly have a way of showing their likes and
dislikes very strongly. When I first came to Damascus, fond though I
was of animals, I found that most of them shied at me. I do not think

that they had been accustomed to an Englishwoman at close quarters.
For instance, I went for a walk one day, and met a small boy leading a
donkey laden with radishes, as high as a small tree. I suppose that I was
strange-looking, for at the sight of me the donkey kicked up