The Lands of the Saracen | Page 9

of the raw onion, which we remember with tears--shall
not plead his cause in vain.
Beyrout (out of Quarantine), _Wednesday, May_ 21.
The handsome Greek, Diamanti, one of the proprietors of the "Hotel de

Belle Vue," was on hand bright and early yesterday morning, to
welcome us out of Quarantine. The gates were thrown wide, and forth
we issued between two files of soldiers, rejoicing in our purification.
We walked through mulberry orchards to the town, and through its
steep and crooked streets to the hotel, which stands beyond, near the
extremity of the Cape, or Ras Beyrout. The town is small, but has an
active population, and a larger commerce than any other port in Syria.
The anchorage, however, is an open road, and in stormy weather it is
impossible for a boat to land. There are two picturesque old castles on
some rocks near the shore, but they were almost destroyed by the
English bombardment in 1841. I noticed two or three granite columns,
now used as the lintels of some of the arched ways in the streets, and
other fragments of old masonry, the only remains of the ancient
Berytus.
Our time, since our release, has been occupied by preparations for the
journey to Jerusalem. We have taken François as dragoman, and our
mukkairee, or muleteers, are engaged to be in readiness to-morrow
morning. I learn that the Druses are in revolt in Djebel Hauaran and
parts of the Anti-Lebanon, which will prevent my forming any settled
plan for the tour through Palestine and Syria. Up to this time, the
country has been considered quite safe, the only robbery this winter
having been that of the party of Mr. Degen, of New York, which was
plundered near Tiberias. Dr. Robinson left here two weeks ago for
Jerusalem, in company with Dr. Eli Smith, of the American Mission at
this place.




Chapter II.
The Coast of Palestine.

The Pilgrimage Commences--The Muleteers--The Mules--The
Donkey--Journey to Sidon--The Foot of Lebanon--Pictures--The Ruins
of Tyre--A Wild Morning--The Tyrian Surges--Climbing the Ladder of
Tyre--Panorama of the Bay of Acre--The Plain of Esdraelon--Camp in
a Garden--Acre--the Shore of the Bay--Haifa--Mount Carmel and its
Monastery--A Deserted Coast--The Ruins of Cæsarea--The Scenery of
Palestine--We become Robbers--El Haram--Wrecks--the Harbor and
Town of Jaffa.
"Along the line of foam, the jewelled chain, The largesse of the
ever-giving main."
R. H. Stoddard.
Ramleh, April 27, 1852.
We left Beyrout on the morning of the 22d. Our caravan consisted of
three horses, three mules, and a donkey, in charge of two men--Dervish,
an erect, black-bearded, and most impassive Mussulman, and Mustapha,
who is the very picture of patience and good-nature. He was born with
a smile on his face, and has never been able to change the expression.
They are both masters of their art, and can load a mule with a speed and
skill which I would defy any Santa Fé trader to excel. The animals are
not less interesting than their masters. Our horses, to be sure, are slow,
plodding beasts, with considerable endurance, but little spirit; but the
two baggage mules deserve gold medals from the Society for the
Promotion of Industry. I can overlook any amount of waywardness in
the creatures, in consideration of the steady, persevering energy, the
cheerfulness and even enthusiasm with which they perform their duties.
They seem to be conscious that they are doing well, and to take a
delight in the consciousness. One of them has a band of white shells
around his neck, fastened with a tassel and two large blue beads; and
you need but look at him to see that he is aware how becoming it is. He
thinks it was given to him for good conduct, and is doing his best to
merit another. The little donkey is a still more original animal. He is a
practical humorist, full of perverse tricks, but all intended for effect,
and without a particle of malice. He generally walks behind, running
off to one side or the other to crop a mouthful of grass, but no sooner

does Dervish attempt to mount him, than he sets off at full gallop, and
takes the lead of the caravan. After having performed one of his feats,
he turns around with a droll glance at us, as much as to say: "Did you
see that?" If we had not been present, most assuredly he would never
have done it. I can imagine him, after his return to Beyrout, relating his
adventures to a company of fellow-donkeys, who every now and then
burst into tremendous brays at some of his irresistible dry sayings.
I persuaded Mr. Harrison to adopt the Oriental costume, which, from
five months' wear in Africa, I greatly preferred to the Frank. We
therefore rode out of Beyrout as a