wilds--these things matter not a particle. In the symbol of this little 
town you loose your hold on the world of made things, and shift for 
yourself among the unchanging conditions of nature. 
Here the faint forest flavour, the subtle, invisible breath of freedom, 
stirs faintly across men's conventions. The ordinary affairs of life 
savour of this tang--a trace of wildness in the domesticated berry. In the 
dress of the inhabitants is a dash of colour, a carelessness of port; in the 
manner of their greeting is the clear, steady-eyed taciturnity of the 
silent places; through the web of their gray talk of ways and means and 
men's simpler beliefs runs a thread of colour. One hears strange, 
suggestive words and phrases--arapajo, capote, arroyo, the diamond 
hitch, cache, butte, coulé, muskegs, portage, and a dozen others coined 
into the tender of daily use. And occasionally, when the expectation is 
least alert, one encounters suddenly the very symbol of the wilderness 
itself--a dust-whitened cowboy, an Indian packer with his straight, 
fillet-confined hair, a voyageur gay in red sash and ornamented 
moccasins, one of the Company's canoemen, hollow-cheeked from the 
river--no costumed show exhibit, but fitting naturally into the scene, 
bringing something of the open space with him--so that in your 
imagination the little town gradually takes on the colour of mystery
which an older community utterly lacks. 
But perhaps the strongest of the influences which unite to assure the 
psychological kinships of the jumping-off places is that of the Aromatic 
Shop. It is usually a board affair, with a broad high sidewalk shaded by 
a wooden awning. You enter through a narrow door, and find yourself 
facing two dusky aisles separated by a narrow division of goods, and 
flanked by wooden counters. So far it is exactly like the corner store of 
our rural districts. But in the dimness of these two aisles lurks the spirit 
of the wilds. There in a row hang fifty pair of smoke-tanned moccasins; 
in another an equal number of oil-tanned; across the background you 
can make out snowshoes. The shelves are high with 
blankets--three-point, four-point--thick and warm for the out-of-doors. 
Should you care to examine, the storekeeper will hook down from aloft 
capotes of different degrees of fineness. Fathoms of black tobacco-rope 
lie coiled in tubs. Tump-lines welter in a tangle of dimness. On a series 
of little shelves is the ammunition, fascinating in the attraction of mere 
numbers--44 Winchester, 45 Colt, 40-82, 30-40, 44 S. & W.--they all 
connote something to the accustomed mind, just as do the numbered 
street names of New York. 
An exploration is always bringing something new to light among the 
commonplaces of ginghams and working shirts, and canned goods and 
stationery, and the other thousands of civilized drearinesses to found in 
every country store. From under the counter you drag out a mink skin 
or so; from the dark corner an assortment of steel traps. In a loft a 
birch-bark mokok, fifty pounds heavy with granulated maple sugar, 
dispenses a faint perfume. 
For this is, above all, the Aromatic Shop. A hundred ghosts of odours 
mingle to produce the spirit of it. The reek of the camp-fires is in its 
buckskin, of the woods in its birch bark, of the muskegs in its sweet 
grass, of the open spaces in its peltries, of the evening meal in its 
coffees and bacons, of the portage trail in the leather of the tump-lines. 
I am speaking now of the country of which we are to write. The shops 
of the other jumping-off places are equally aromatic--whether with the 
leather of saddles, the freshness of ash paddles, or the pungency of 
marline; and once the smell of them is in your nostrils you cannot but 
away. 
The Aromatic Shop is always kept by the wisest, the most
accommodating, the most charming shopkeeper in the world. He has all 
leisure to give you, and enters into the innermost spirit of your buying. 
He is of supernal sagacity in regard to supplies and outfits, and if he 
does not know all about routes, at least he is acquainted with the very 
man who can tell you everything you want to know. He leans both 
elbows on the counter, you swing your feet, and together you go over 
the list, while the Indian stands smoky and silent in the background. 
"Now, if I was you," says he, "I'd take just a little more pork. You won't 
be eatin' so much yourself, but these Injuns ain't got no bottom when it 
comes to sow-belly. And I wouldn't buy all that coffee. You ain't goin' 
to want much after the first edge is worn off. Tea's the boy." The Indian 
shoots a few rapid words across the discussion. "He says you'll want 
some iron shoes to fit on canoe    
    
		
	
	
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