down in his own dooryard. . . . . 
I lecture in the theatre at Carson, which opens out of a drinking and 
gambling house. On each side of the door where my ticket-taker stands 
there are monte-boards and sweat-cloths, but they are deserted to-night, 
the gamblers being evidently of a literary turn of mind. . . . . 
Five years ago there was only a pony-path over the precipitous hills on 
which now stands the marvelous city of Virginia, with its population of 
twelve thousand persons, and perhaps more. Virginia, with its stately 
warehouses and gay shops; its splendid streets, paved with silver ore; 
its banking houses and faro-banks; its attractive coffee-houses and 
elegant theatre, its music halls and its three daily newspapers.
Virginia is very wild, but I believe it is now pretty generally believed 
that a mining city must go through with a certain amount of 
unadulterated cussedness before it can settle down and behave itself in 
a conservative and seemly manner. Virginia has grown up in the heart 
of the richest silver regions in the world, the El Dorado of the hour; and 
of the immense numbers who are swarming thither not more than half 
carry their mother's Bible or any settled religion with them. The 
gambler and the strange woman as naturally seek the new sensational 
town as ducks take to that element which is so useful for making 
cocktails and bathing one's feet; and these people make the new town 
rather warm for a while. But by and by the earnest and honest citizens 
get tired of this ungodly nonsense and organize a Vigilance Committee, 
which hangs the more vicious of the pestiferous crowd to a sour-apple 
tree; and then come good municipal laws, ministers, meeting-houses, 
and a tolerably sober police in blue coats with brass buttons. About five 
thousand able-bodied men are in the mines underground, here; some as 
far down as five hundred feet. The Gould and Curry Mine employs nine 
hundred men, and annually turns out about twenty million dollars' 
worth of "demnition gold and silver," as Mr. Mantalini might express it, 
though silver chiefly. 
There are many other mines here and at Gold Hill (another startling 
silver city, a mile from here), all of which do nearly as well. The silver 
is melted down into bricks of the size of common house bricks; then it 
is loaded into huge wagons, each drawn by eight and twelve mules, and 
sent off to San Francisco. To a young person fresh from the land of 
greenbacks this careless manner of carting off solid silver is rather a 
startler. It is related that a young man who came Overland from New 
Hampshire a few months before my arrival became so excited about it 
that he fell in a fit, with the name of his Uncle Amos on his lips! The 
hardy miners supposed he wanted his uncle there to see the great sight, 
and faint with him. But this was pure conjecture, after all. 
. . . . 
I visit several of the adjacent mining towns, but I do not go to Aurora. 
No, I think not. A lecturer on psychology was killed there the other 
night by the playful discharge of a horse-pistol in the hands of a 
degenerate and intoxicated Spaniard. This circumstance, and a rumor 
that the citizens are "agin" literature, induce me to go back to Virginia.
. . . . 
I had pointed out to me at a restaurant a man who had killed four men 
in street broils, and who had that very day cut his own brother's breast 
open in a dangerous manner with a small supper knife. He was a 
gentleman, however. I heard him tell some men so. He admitted it 
himself. And I don't think he would lie about a little thing like that. 
The theatre at Virginia will attract the attention of the stranger, because 
it is an unusually elegant affair of the kind, and would be so regarded 
anywhere. It was built, of course, by Mr. Thomas Maguire, the 
Napoleonic manager of the Pacific, and who has built over twenty 
theatres in his time and will perhaps build as many more, unless 
somebody stops him--which, by the way, will not be a remarkably easy 
thing to do. 
As soon as a mining camp begins to assume the proportions of a city, at 
about the time the whiskey-vender draws his cork or the gambler 
spreads his green cloth, Maguire opens a theatre, and with a 
hastily-organized "Vigilance Committee" of actors, commences to 
execute Shakespeare. 
4.6. MR. PEPPER. 
My arrival at Virginia City was signalized by the following incident: 
I had no sooner achieved my room in the garret of the International 
Hotel than I was called upon by an intoxicated man who said he was    
    
		
	
	
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