The Backwoods of Canada | Page 9

through which the waters of the
Montmorenci rush into the St. Laurence.
At ten last night, August the 15th, the lights of the city of Quebec were
seen gleaming through the distance like a coronet of stars above the
waters. At half-past ten we dropped anchor opposite the fort, and I fell
asleep dreaming of the various scenes through which I had passed.
Again I was destined to be disappointed in my expectations of going on
shore. The visiting surgeon advised my husband and me by no means
to land, as the mortality that still raged in the town made it very
hazardous. He gave a melancholy description of the place. "Desolation
and woe and great mourning--Rachel weeping for her children because
they are not," are words that may well be applied to this city of the
pestilence.
[Illustration - Falls of Montmorenci]
Nothing can be more imposing than the situation of Quebec, built on
the sides and summit of a magnificent rock, on the highest point of
which (Cape Diamond) stands the fortress overlooking the river, and
commanding a most superb view of the surrounding scenes. I did,
indeed, regret the loss of this noble prospect, the equal of which I
suppose I shall never see. It would have been something to have
thought on and recalled in after years, when buried in the solitude of
the Canadian woods.

The opposite heights, being the Point Levi side, are highly picturesque,
though less imposing than the rock on which the town stands. The bank
is rocky, precipitous, and clothed with trees that sweep down to the
water's edge, excepting where they are cleared away to give place to
white cottages, gardens, and hanging orchards. But, in my opinion,
much less is done with this romantic situation than might be effected if
good taste were exercised in the buildings, and on the disposal of the
ground. How lovely would such a spot be rendered in England or
Scotland. Nature here has done all, and man but little, excepting
sticking up some ugly wooden cottages, as mean as they are tasteless. It
is, however, very possible there may be pretty villas and houses higher
up, that are concealed from the eye by the intervening groves.
The river is considered to be just a mile across from Point Levi to the
landing-stairs below the custom-house in Quebec; and it was a source
of amusement to me to watch the horse ferry-boats that ply between the
two shores. The captain told me there were not less than twelve of these
comical-looking machines. They each have their regular hours, so that
you see a constant succession going or returning. They carry a strange
assortment of passengers; well and ill-dressed; old and young; rich and
poor; cows, sheep, horses, pigs, dogs, fowls, market-baskets,
vegetables, fruit, hay, corn, anything and everything you will see by
turns.
The boat is flat, railed round, with a wicker at each end to admit the
live and dead stock that go or are taken on board; the centre of the boat
(if such it can be called) is occupied by four lean, ill-favoured hacks,
who walk round and round, as if in a threshing machine, and work the
paddles at each side. There is a sort of pen for the cattle.
I am told there is a monument erecting in honour of Wolfe, in the
governor's garden, looking towards the St. Laurence, and to be seen
from Point Levi: the inscription has not yet been decided upon*.
-------------------- [* Since the period in which the author visited Quebec,
Wolfe's monument has been completed. Lord Dalhousie, with equal
good feeling and good taste, has united the names of the rival heroes
Wolfe and Montcalm in the dedication of the pillar--a liberality of
feeling that cannot but prove gratifying to the Canadian French, while it
robs the British warrior of none of his glory.
The monument was designed by Major Young of the 97th Regiment.

To the top of the surbase is fourteen feet from the ground; on this rests
a sarcophagus, seven feet three inches high, from which rises an obelisk
forty-two feet eight inches in height, and the apex is two feet one inch.
The dimensions of the obelisk at the base are six feet by four feet eight
inches. A prize medal was adjudged to J.C. Fisher, LL.D. for the
following inscription on the sarcophagus:--
Mortem virtus communem Famam Historia Monumentum Posteritas
Dedit.
On the surbase is an inscription from the pen of Dr. Mills, stating the
fact of the erection of the monument at the expense of Lord Dalhousie,
Governor of Lower Canada, to commemorate the death of Wolfe and
Montcalm, Sept. 13 and 14, 1759. Wolfe fell on the field; and
Montcalm, who was wounded by the single gun in