Sylva, Vol. 1 | Page 9

of September, still accompanied by
his friend Thicknesse, he left Tours and 'travelled towards the more
southerne part of France, minding now to shape my course so as I
might winter in Italy.' Journeying southward, partly by road and partly
by river, he visited Lyons, Avignon, and Marseilles, whither he wended
his way deliciously 'thro' a country sweetely declining to the South and
Mediterranean coasts, full of vineyards and olive-yards, orange-trees,
myrtils, pomegranads, and the like sweete plantations, to which belong
pleasantly-situated villas ...... as if they were so many heapes of snow
dropp'd out of the clouds amongst these perennial greenes.' Taking
mules to Cannes, he went by sea to Genoa 'having procur'd a bill of
health (without which there is no admission at any towne in Italy).' On
reaching 'Mongus, now cal'd Monaco' on the route, 'we were hastened
away, having no time permitted us by our avaricious master to go up
and see this strong and considerable place.'
On Oct. 16th., after 'much ado and greate perill' he landed on Italian
soil. He was fully prepared to have the most delicious pleasure in this

classical land, having already, even during the stormy weather off the
coast, 'smelt the peculiar joys of Italy in the perfumes of orange, citron,
and jassmine flowers for divers leagues seaward.'
It would be pleasant to ramble through Italy in Evelyn's company, and
to share with him the many enjoyments recorded in his Diary: but
space forbids. From Genoa he went to Leghorn and Pisa, from Pisa to
Florence, thence to Sienna, and on to Rome. 'I came to Rome on the 4th
November, 1644, about 5 at night, and being perplexed for a
convenient lodging, wandered up and down on horseback, till at last
one conducted us to Monsieur Petits, a Frenchman, near the Piazza
Spagnola. Here I alighted, and having bargained with my host for 20
crownes a moneth, I caused a good fire to be made in my chamber and
went to bed, being so very wet. The next morning (for I was resolved to
spend no time idly here) I got acquainted with several persons who had
long lived at Rome.'
Evelyn's description of the interesting sights he saw in Rome is so good
that it might well be perused in place of modern guide-books by those
visiting the city. There is a delightful attractiveness about it, in which
these up-to-date works are sometimes wanting. But even his youthful
energy began to tire, and his keen appetite to become sated with
continuous sightseeing. After more than six months of it 'we now
determined to desist from visiting any more curiosities, except what
should happen to come in our way, when my companion Mr. Henshaw
or myself should go out to take the aire.' Then, however, as now for
some people, the crowning event of a visit to Rome was to receive the
Papal blessing. This Evelyn desired and obtained, although the event is
not recorded in his diary with any great enthusiasm. 'May, 4th. Having
seen the entrie of ye ambassador of Lucca, I went to the Vatican, where,
by favour of our Cardinal Protector, Frair Barberini, I was admitted
into the consistorie, heard the ambassador make his ovation in Latine to
the Pope, sitting on an elevated state or throne, and changing two
pontifical miters; after which I was presented to kisse his toe, that is,
his embroder'd slipper, two Cardinals holding up his vest and surplice,
and then being sufficiently bless'd with his thumb and two fingers for
that day, I return'd home to dinner.'

He quitted Rome about the middle of May after a sojourn there of
seven months, which had occasioned him so small an outlay that he
remarked thereon in his Diary. 'The bills of exchange I took up from
my first entering Italy till I went from Rome amounted but to 616
ducanti di banco, though I purchas'd many books, pictures, and
curiosities.' Going northwards by Sienna, Leghorn, Lucca, Florence,
Bologna, and Ferrara, he reached Venice early in June. Arriving
'extreamly weary and beaten' with the journey, he went and enjoyed the
new luxury of a Turkish bath. 'This bath did so open my pores that it
cost me one of the greatest colds I ever had in my life, for want of
necessary caution in keeping myselfe warme for some time after; for
coming out, I immediately began to visit the famous places of the city;
and travellers who come in to Italy do nothing but run up and down to
see sights.'
Evelyn had the good fortune to see Venice en fête, and in those days
that must have been a sight well worth seeing. He saw the Doge
espouse the Adriatic by casting a gold ring into it on Ascension day
with