a "Palm Oil Ruffian," sufficient evidence that it had been 
forged or stolen. He soon saw that solely as a white man was he 
accepted and made welcome. That he was respectable, few believed, 
and no one cared. To be taken at his face value, to be refused at the 
start the benefit of the doubt, was a novel sensation; and yet not 
unpleasant. It was a relief not to be accepted only as Everett the 
Muckraker, as a professional reformer, as one holier than others. It 
afforded his soul the same relaxation that his body received when, in 
his shirt-sleeves in the sweltering smoking-room, he drank beer with a 
chef de poste who had been thrice tried for murder. 
Not only to every one was he a stranger, but to him everything was 
strange; so strange as to appear unreal. This did not prevent him from at 
once recognizing those things that were not strange, such as corrupt 
officials, incompetence, mismanagement. He did not need the
missionaries to point out to him that the Independent State of the 
Congo was not a colony administered for the benefit of many, but a 
vast rubber plantation worked by slaves to fill the pockets of one man. 
It was not in his work that Everett found himself confused. It was in his 
attitude of mind toward almost every other question. 
At first, when he could not make everything fit his rule of thumb, he 
excused the country tolerantly as a "topsy-turvy" land. He wished to 
move and act quickly; to make others move quickly. He did not 
understand that men who had sentenced themselves to exile for the 
official term of three years, or for life, measured time only by the date 
of their release. When he learned that even a cablegram could not reach 
his home in less than eighteen days, that the missionaries to whom he 
brought letters were a three months' journey from the coast and from 
each other, his impatience was chastened to wonder, and, later, to awe. 
His education began at Matadi, where he waited until the river steamer 
was ready to start for Leopoldville. Of the two places he was assured 
Matadi was the better, for the reason that if you still were in favor with 
the steward of the ship that brought you south, he might sell you a 
piece of ice. 
Matadi was a great rock, blazing with heat. Its narrow, perpendicular 
paths seemed to run with burning lava. Its top, the main square of the 
settlement, was of baked clay, beaten hard by thousands of naked feet. 
Crossing it by day was an adventure. The air that swept it was the 
breath of a blast-furnace. 
Everett found a room over the shop of a Portuguese trader. It was caked 
with dirt, and smelled of unnamed diseases and chloride of lime. In it 
was a canvas cot, a roll of evil-looking bedding, a wash-basin filled 
with the stumps of cigarettes. In a corner was a tin chop-box, which 
Everett asked to have removed. It belonged, the landlord told him, to 
the man who, two nights before, had occupied the cot and who had died 
in it. Everett was anxious to learn of what he had died. Apparently 
surprised at the question, the Portuguese shrugged his shoulders. 
"Who knows?" he exclaimed. The next morning the English trader
across the street assured Everett there was no occasion for alarm. "He 
didn't die of any disease," he explained. "Somebody got at him from the 
balcony, while he was in his cot, and knifed him." 
The English trader was a young man, a cockney, named Upsher. At 
home he had been a steward on the Channel steamers. Everett made 
him his most intimate friend. He had a black wife, who spent most of 
her day in a four-post bed, hung with lace curtains and blue ribbon, in 
which she resembled a baby hippopotamus wallowing in a bank of 
white sand. 
At first the black woman was a shock to Everett, but after Upsher 
dismissed her indifferently as a "good old sort," and spent one evening 
blubbering over a photograph of his wife and "kiddie" at home, Everett 
accepted her. His excuse for this was that men who knew they might 
die on the morrow must not be judged by what they do to-day. The 
excuse did not ring sound, but he dismissed the doubt by deciding that 
in such heat it was not possible to take serious questions seriously. In 
the fact that, to those about him, the thought of death was ever present, 
he found further excuse for much else that puzzled and shocked him. At 
home, death had been a contingency so remote that he had put it aside 
as something he need not consider until he was    
    
		
	
	
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