My Three Days In Gilead | Page 9

Elmer U. Hoenshel
Elsewhere I had seen this done when it seemed to me
the actor was under the spell of a superstitious fear.
About the middle of the afternoon a soldier, full armed, dashes up to us
in a mad gallop, hands a message to my dragoman, and then as rapidly
rides back again. I am a little alarmed at this until I learn that he has
entrusted a writing to us to be delivered in Jerusalem. A little later I see
another soldier leave the group in which he is riding and gallop ahead
across the open way to the brow of a hill. There he dismounts, lays
down his gun, takes the robe, or blanket, on which he rode, spreads it
upon the ground, faces toward Mecca, and prostrates himself in prayer.
The prayer over, he dashes down to his party and they are off like the
wind.
About four o'clock we passed near a little village, the only place where
I saw a house on that long afternoon ride. It is not safe for any one to
live outside the villages; hence there are no isolated dwellings in all this
region. We did not halt for one moment, but kept pressing steadily on.
After five o'clock the plain was deserted; we saw from that time neither
man nor beast. I was cramped and painfully tired, and feeling that if I
could but walk for a few minutes it would be quite a relief, I
dismounted--quite a difficult thing to do and keep from sprawling upon
the ground. But I was no sooner off my horse than Haleel was beside
me, and my dragoman, who was at that time nearly a hundred yards
ahead of me, rode back and sternly commanded: "You get right back on
that horse; this is no time to think of walking; you can do that some
other time." Inwardly I resented it; how could I stand it longer! I
blamed it on the saddle, then I thought that they must have given me
the worst horse of the three. But all this helped nothing. They assisted

me again into the saddle. Then my guide delivered a little speech in
Arabic to Haleel. I did not then understand it, but shortly after I learned
the essence of it; it was, "You keep your eye on him and see that he
keeps his horse moving." When I found myself again in the saddle I
determined that if I must ride there would be no more trotting of my
horse,--I would proceed as gently as possible. But, alas! Haleel had his
whip and my dream of controlling my horse was over. After that I kept
close to my dragoman. At that time I thought it harsh treatment, but
later I understood.
We have reached the limit of level land and are now winding among
the eastern foot-hills of the mountains of Gilead. It is the hour of sunset
and the great orb of day sinks in sad beauty to me. In the twilight I see
here and there half-buried pillars of some famous temple--a temple that
surely never stood here. Our horses are wet with sweat; we have not
halted for lunch; not a drop of water has been seen; night is coming on
with its pale moon casting weird shadows about us; we are alone in a
land noted for its lawlessness, and yet we are unarmed. We move on
almost in silence. There is silence about us, save for the cry now and
then of some night-bird. We see no lights save those above us. My
guide seems bewildered and uncertain as to the location of the town we
seek. I am faint from weariness, and so cramped that at times it is with
difficulty that I keep from falling to the ground. I am now quite
solicitous as to our safety and not a little alarmed when our way leads
through some rocky, narrow passage suggestive of a lurking- place for
men of evil intent. But at last, at half-past nine o'clock, after being in
the saddle for nine hours, I am aroused from my stupor by a joyful
exclamation from my dragoman. A few dim lights are seen,--IT IS
GERASA!
My dragoman continued his exclamations of praise thus, "I thank my
God for saving my life once more." I said faintly, "Why such words?"
"Well," he said, "all natives are expected to be in their villages by
sundown, tourists at their destination earlier. It is the custom of this
region that tourists must have an escort of soldiers or Bedouins, even in
times of peace; and now THE FEUDS ARE ON; and here we have
come alone, at night, unarmed; and I am responsible for these

horses--they are not mine--and for your life. The ride may
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