The French, 
who pride themselves on being realistic, were getting ready to go after 
Feisal with bayonets and poison-gas, as they eventually did. 
In Jerusalem the Bolsheviks, astonishingly credulous of "secret" news 
from Moscow, and skeptical of every one's opinion but their own, were 
bolsheviking Marxian Utopia beneath a screen of such arrogant
innocence that even the streetcorner police constables suspected them. 
And Mustapha Kemal, in Anatolia, was rumoured to be preparing a 
holy war. It was known as a Ghazi in those days. He had not yet 
scrapped religion. He was contemplating, so said rumour, a genuine 
old-fashioned moslem jihad, with modern trimmings. 
A few enthusiasts astonishingly still laboured for an American mandate. 
At the Holy Sepulchre a British soldier stood on guard with bayonet 
and bullets to prevent the priests of rival creeds from murdering one 
another. The sun shone and so did the stars. General Bols reopened 
Pontius Pilate's water-works. The learned monks in convents argued 
about facts and theories denied by archaeologists. Old-fashioned Jews 
wailed at the Wailing Wall. Tommy Atkins blasphemously dug corpses 
of donkeys and dogs from the Citadel moat. 
I arrived in the midst of all that, and spent a couple of months trying to 
make head or tail of it, and wondering, if that was peace, what war is? 
They say that wherever a man was ever slain in Palestine a flower 
grows. So one gets a fair idea of the country's mass-experience without 
much difficulty. For three months of the year, from end to end, the 
whole landscape is carpeted with flowers so close together that, except 
where beasts and men have trodden winding tracks, one can hardly 
walk without crushing an anemone or wild chrysanthemum. There are 
more battle-fields in that small land than all Europe can show. There 
are streams everywhere that historians assert repeatedly "ran blood for 
days." 
Five thousand years of bloody terrorism, intermingling of races, piety, 
plunder, politics and pilgrims, have produced a self- consciousness as 
concentrated as liquid poison-gas. The laughter is sarcastic, the humour 
sardonic, and the credulity beyond analysis. For instance, when I got 
there, I heard the British being accused of "imperialistic savagery" 
because they had removed the leprous beggars from the streets into a 
clean place where they could receive medical treatment. 
It was difficult to find one line of observation. Whatever anybody told 
you, was reversed entirely by the next man. The throat-distorting 
obligation to study Arabic called for rather intimate association with
educated Arabs, whose main obsession was fear of the Zionist Jews. 
The things they said against the Jews turned me pro-Zionist. So I 
cautiously made the acquaintance of some gentlemen with 
gold-rimmed spectacles, and the things they said about the Arabs set 
me to sympathizing with the sons of Ishmael again. 
In the midst of that predicament I met Jimgrim--Major James Schuyler 
Grim, to give him his full title, although hardly any one ever called him 
by it. After that, bewilderment began to cease as, under his amused, 
painstaking fingers, thread after thread of the involved gnarl of plots 
and politics betrayed its course. 
However, first I must tell how I met him. There is an American Colony 
in Jerusalem--a community concern that runs a one-price store, and is 
even more savagely criticized than the British Administration, as is 
only natural. The story of what they did in the war is a three-year epic. 
You can't be "epic" and not make enemies. 
A Chicago Jew assured me they were swine and horse-thieves. But I 
learned that the Yemen Jews prayed for them--first prayer-- every 
Sabbath of the year, calling down blessings on their heads for 
charitable service rendered. 
One hardly goes all the way to Palestine to meet Americans; but a 
journalist can't afford to be wilfully ignorant. A British official assured 
me they were "good blokes" and an Armenian told me they could skin 
fleas for their hides and tallow; but the Armenian was wearing a good 
suit, and eating good food, which he admitted had been given to him by 
the American Colony. He was bitter with them because they had 
refused to cash a draft on Mosul, drawn on a bank that had ceased to 
exist. 
It seemed a good idea to call on the American Colony, at their store 
near the Jaffa Gate, and it turned out to be a very clean spot in a dirty 
city. I taxed their generosity, and sat for hours on a ten-thousand-dollar 
pile of Asian rugs behind the store; and, whatever I have missed and 
lost, or squandered, at least I know their story and can keep it until the 
proper time.
Of course, you have to allow for point of view, just as the mariner 
allows for variation and deviation; but when they inferred that most of 
the constructive    
    
		
	
	
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