There is hardly a league of its whole course, from its cradle in the 
snowy Alps to its grave in the sands of Holland, which boasts not its 
peculiar charms. By heavens! If I were a German I would be proud of it 
too; and of the clustering grapes, that hang about its temples, as it reels 
onward through vineyards, in a triumphal march, like Bacchus,
crowned and drunken. 
But I will not attempt to describe the Rhine; it would make this chapter 
much too long. And to do it well, one should write like a god; and his 
style flow onward royally with breaks and dashes, like the waters of 
that royal river, and antique, quaint, and Gothic times, be reflected in it. 
Alas! this evening my style flows not at all. Flow, then, into this 
smoke-colored goblet, thou blood of the Rhine! out of thy 
prison-house,--out of thy long-necked, tapering flask, in shape not 
unlike a church-spire among thy native hills; and, from the crystal 
belfry, loud ring the merry tinkling bells, while I drink a health to my 
hero, in whose heart is sadness, and in whose ears the bells of 
Andernach are ringing noon. 
He is threading his way alone through a narrow alley, and now up a 
flight of stone steps, and along the city wall, towards that old round 
tower, built by the Archbishop Frederick of Cologne in the twelfth 
century. It has a romantic interest in his eyes; for he has still in his 
mind and heart that beautiful sketch of Carové, in which is described a 
day on the tower of Andernach. He finds the old keeper and his wife 
still there; and the old keeper closes the door behind him slowly, as of 
old, lest he should jam too hard the poor souls in Purgatory, whose fate 
it is to suffer in the cracks of doors and hinges. But alas! alas! the 
daughter, the maiden with long, dark eyelashes! she is asleep in her 
little grave, under the linden trees of Feldkirche, with rosemary in her 
folded hands! 
Flemming returned to the hotel disappointed. As he passed along the 
narrow streets, he was dreaming of many things; but mostly of the 
keeper's daughter, asleep in the churchyard of Feldkirche. Suddenly, on 
turning the corner of an ancient, gloomy church, his attention was 
arrested by a little chapel in an angle of the wall. It was only a small 
thatched roof, like a bird's nest; under which stood a rude wooden 
image of the Saviour on the Cross. A real crown of thorns was upon his 
head, which was bowed downward, as if in the death agony; and drops 
of blood were falling down his cheeks, and from his hands and feet and 
side. The face was haggard and ghastly beyond all expression; and 
wore a look of unutterable bodily anguish. The rude sculptor had given 
it this, but his art could go no farther. The sublimity of death in a dying 
Saviour, the expiring God-likeness of Jesus of Nazareth was not there.
The artist had caught no heavenly inspiration from his theme. All was 
coarse, harsh, and revolting to a sensitive mind; and Flemming turned 
away with a shudder, as he saw this fearful image gazing at him, with 
its fixed and half-shut eyes. 
He soon reached the hotel, but that face of agony still haunted him. He 
could not refrain from speaking of it to a very old woman, who sat 
knitting by the window of the dining-room, in a high-backed, 
old-fashioned arm-chair. I believe she was the innkeeper's grandmother. 
At all events she was old enough to be so. She took off her owl-eyed 
spectacles, and, as she wiped the glasses with her handkerchief, said; 
"Thou dear Heaven! Is it possible! Did you never hear of the Christ of 
Andernach?" 
Flemming answered in the negative. 
"Thou dear Heaven!" continued the old woman. "It is a very wonderful 
story; and a true one, as every good Christian in Andernach will tell 
you. And it all happened before the deathof my blessed man, four years 
ago, let me see,--yes, four years ago, come Christmas." 
Here the old woman stopped speaking, but went on with her knitting. 
Other thoughts seemed to occupy her mind. She was thinking, no doubt, 
of her blessed man, as German widows call their dead husbands. But 
Flemming having expressed an ardent wish to hear the wonderful story, 
she told it, in nearly the following words. 
"There was once a poor old woman in Andernach whose name was 
Frau Martha, and she lived all alone in a house by herself, and loved all 
the Saints and the blessed Virgin, and was as good as an angel, and sold 
pies down by the Rheinkrahn. But her house was very old, and    
    
		
	
	
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