Herzegovina | Page 2

128--140
CHAPTER XI.
Leave Mostar for the Frontier--Mammoth Tombstones--Stolatz-- Castle
and Town--Christian Shopkeeper--Valley of the Stolatz--Disappearance
of River--Temporary Camp--My Dalmatian Servant--Turkish Army
Doctors--Numerical Force of the Turks--Health of the
Army--Bieliki--Decapitation of Prisoners--Christian Cruelty 141--164
CHAPTER XII.
Tzernagora--Collusion between Montenegrins and Rebels--Turks
abandon System of Forbearance--Chances of Success--Russian
Influence--Private Machination--M. Hecquard--European
Intervention--Luca Vukalovich--Commencement of
Hostilities--Dervisch Pacha--Advance on Gasko--Baniani-- Bashi
Bazouks--Activity of Omer Pacha--Campaigning in Turkey--Line of
March--Pass of Koryta--The Halt--National Dance--'La Donna
_Amabile_'--Tchernitza--Hakki Bey--Osman Pacha--Man with Big
Head--Old Tower-- Elephantiasis--Gasko--Camp Life--Moslem
Devotions--Character of Turkish Troops--System of
Drill--Peculation--Turkish Army--Letters--Scarcity of
Provisions--Return of Villagers 155--173
CHAPTER XIII.
Expedition to Niksich--Character of Scenery--Engineer Officers--Want
of Maps--Affghan Dervish--Krustach--Wallack
Colonel--Bivouac--Bashi Bazouks--Pass of Dougah--Plain of
Niksich--Town and Frontier--Albanian Mudir--Turkish
Women--Defects of Government by Mudir and Medjlis 174--189
CHAPTER XIV.
Return to Gasko--Thunderstorm--Attacked by Rebels--Enemy

repulsed--Retrograde Movement--Eventful Night--Turkish Soldiers
murdered--Montenegrin Envoy--Coal-Pit--Entrenched Camp
assaulted--Return of Omer Pacha to Mostar--Distinctive Character of
Mahometan Religion--Naval Reorganisation-- Military
Uniforms--Return to Mostar--Dervisch Bey--Zaloum-- Express
Courier--Giovanni--Nevresign--Fortified Barrack--
Mostar--Magazine--Barracks--Wooden Block-houses--European
Commission--Tour of the Grand Vizier--Enquiry into Christian
Grievances--Real Causes of Complaint--Forcible Abduction of
Christian Girls--Prince Gortschakoff's Charges--The
Meredits--Instincts of Race 190--214
CHAPTER XV.
Excursion to Blato--Radobolya--Roman Road--Lichnitza--
Subterraneous Passage--Duck-shooting--Roman Tombs--Coins and
Curiosities--Boona--Old Bridge--Mulberry Trees--Blagai--Source of
Boona River--Kiosk--Castle--Plain of Mostar--Legends--Silver
Ore--Mineral Products of Bosnia--Landslip--Marbles--Rapids--Valley
of the Drechnitza 215--226
CHAPTER XVI.
Wealthy Christians--German Encyclopædia--Feats of Skill--Legend of
Petral--Chamois-hunting--Valley of Druga--Excavations--Country
Carts--Plain of Duvno--Mahmoud Effendi--Old
Tombs--Duvno--Fortress--Bosnian Frontier--Vidosa--Parish
Priest--National Music--Livno-- Franciscan Convent--Priestly
Incivility--Illness--Quack Medicines--Hungarian Doctor--Military
Ambulance--Bosna Serai--Osman Pacha--Popularity--Roads and
Bridges--Mussulman Rising in Turkish Croatia--Energy of Osman
Pacha 227--242
CHAPTER XVII.
Svornik--Banialuka--New Road--Sport--Hot Springs--Ekshesoo--
Mineral Waters--Celebrated Springs--Goitre--The Bosna--Trout

Fishing--Tzenitza--Zaptiehs--Maglai--Khans--Frozen
Roads--Brod--The Save--Austrian Sentry--Steamer on the
Save--Gradiska--Cenovatz--La lingua di tré Regni--Culpa
River--Sissek--Croatian Hotel--Carlstadt Silk--Railway to
Trieste--Moravian Iron--Concentration of Austrian Troops--Probable
Policy--Watermills--Semlin--Belgrade 243--258
SERVIA:
Its Social, Political, and Financial Condition 261--285
CONCLUSION 286
APPENDIX 287--288

LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS.
A MOONLIGHT BIVOUAC _Frontispiece._
OFFICIAL SEAL OF OMER PACHA _On Title-page._
SIGNATURE OF AUTHOR IN TURKISH CHARACTERS page vi
MAP OF MONTENEGRO To face page 1
MAP OF SLAVONIC PROVINCES OF EUROPEAN TURKEY " 288
[Illustration: Map of Montenegro.]

HERZEGOVINA.
CHAPTER I.
Object of Travels--Start--Mad Woman--Italian
Patriot--Zara--Sebenico--Falls of Kerka--Dalmatian Boatmen--French
Policy and Austrian Prospects--Spalatro--Palace of

Diocletian--Lissa--Naval Action--Gravosa--Ragusa--Dalmatian
Hotel--Change of Plans.
_'Omer Pacha will proceed with the army of Roumelia to quell the
disturbance in Herzegovina.'_ Such, I believe, was the announcement
which confirmed me in the idea of visiting the Slavonic provinces of
European Turkey. Had any doubts existed in my mind of the
importance attached by the Ottoman government to the pacification of
these remote districts, the recall to favour of Omer Pacha, and the
despatch of so large a force under his command, would have sufficed to
remove them. As it was, the mere desire to keep myself au courant of
the events of the day, together with the interest which all must feel in
the condition of a country for whom England has sacrificed so much
blood and treasure, had made me aware that some extraordinary
manifestation of feeling must have occurred to arouse that apathetic
power to so energetic a measure. Of the nature of this manifestation,
little or no reliable information could be obtained; and so vague a
knowledge prevails touching the condition of these provinces, that I at
once perceived that personal observation alone could put me in
possession of it. The opinions of such as did profess to have devoted
any attention to the subject, were most conflicting. Whilst some
pronounced the point at issue to be merely one between the Turkish
government and a few rebellious brigands, others took a far more
gloomy view of the matter, believing that the first shot fired would
prove the signal for a general rising of the Christian subjects of the
Porte, which, in its turn, was to lead to the destruction of Turkish
suzerainty in Europe, and to the consummation of the great Panslavish
scheme. To satisfy myself on these points, then, was the main object of
my travels,--to impart to others the information which I thus obtained,
is the intention of this volume.
On August 31, 1861, I left Trieste in the Austrian Lloyd's steamer,
bound for Corfu, and touching en route at the ports on the Dalmatian
coast. Having failed in all my endeavours to ascertain the exact
whereabouts of the Turkish head-quarters, I had secured my passage to
Ragusa, reckoning on obtaining the necessary information from the
Ottoman Consul at that town; and in this I was not disappointed.

It is not my intention to enlarge upon this portion of my travels, which
would indeed be of little interest; still less to tread in the steps of Sir
Gardner Wilkinson, whose valuable work on Dalmatia has rendered
such a course unnecessary; but rather to enter, with log-like simplicity,
the dates of arrival and departure at the various ports, and such-like
interesting details of sea life. If, however, my landsman-like
propensities should evince themselves by a lurking inclination to 'hug