years ago, at the corner of Water and Fulton 
Streets, and which was the chosen home of the captains of the whaling 
ships from New London, Nantucket, New Bedford, and Sag Harbor; 
Downing's, on Broad Street, famed for its Saddle Rocks and Blue 
Points, and its political patrons; and the basement on Park Row, a few 
doors from the old Park Theatre, presided over by one Edward Windust. 
This last was a rendezvous for actors, artists, musicians, 
newspaper-men--in short, the Bohemian set of that day--and its walls 
were covered with old play-bills, newspaper clippings, and portraits of 
tragedians and comedians of the past. 
But already a demand had been felt for viands of another nature; 
hospitality of another sort. The womankind of the day was looking for 
an occasional chance to break away from the monotonous if 
wholesome and substantial table of the home. Those stiff 
Knickerbockers knew it not; but the modern dining-out New York was 
already in the making. At first the movement was ascribed to the 
European Continental element. In New York Delmonico and Guerin 
were the pioneers in the field. The former began in a little place of pine 
tables and rough wooden chairs on William Street, between Fulton and 
Ann. The original equipment consisted of a broad counter covered with 
white napkins, two-tine forks, buck-handled knives, and earthenware 
plates and cups. From such humble beginnings grew the establishments 
that have subsequently carried the name. Francis Guerin's first café was 
on Broadway, between Pine and Cedar Streets, directly opposite the old 
City Hotel. Another resort of the same type was the _Café des Mille 
Colonnes_, kept by the Italian, Palmo, on the west side of Broadway, 
near Duane Street. It was apparently on a scale lavish for those days. 
Long mirrors on the walls reflected, in an endless vista, the gilded 
columns that supported the ceiling. The fortune accumulated by Palmo 
in the restaurant was lost in an attempt to introduce Italian opera into 
the United States. Palmo's Opera House, in Chamber Street, between
Centre Street and Broadway, later became Burton's Theatre. 
Until 1844, New York was guarded against crime by the old 
"Leather-heads." This force patrolled the city by night, or that part of it 
known as the lamp district. They were not watchmen by profession, but 
were recruited from the ranks of porters, cartmen, stevedores, and 
labourers. They were distinguished by a fireman's cap without front 
(hence the name "Leather-head"), an old camlet coat, and a lantern. 
They had a wholesome respect for their skins, and were inclined to 
keep out of harm's way, seldom visiting the darker quarters of the city. 
When they bawled the hour all rogues in the vicinity were made aware 
of their whereabouts. Above Fourteenth Street the whole city was a 
neglected region. It was beyond the lamp district and in the dark. 
In no way, to the mind of the present scribe, can the contrast between 
the life of the modern city and of the town of the days when Fifth 
Avenue was in the making be better emphasized than by comparing the 
conditions of travel. It was in the year 1820 that John Stevens of 
Hoboken, who had become exasperated because people did not see the 
value of railroads as he did, resolved to prove, at his own expense, that 
the method of travel urged by him was not a madman's scheme. So on 
his own estate on the Hoboken hill he built a little railway of narrow 
gauge and a small locomotive. Long enough had he been sneered at and 
called maniac. He put the locomotive on the track with cars behind it, 
and ran it with himself as a passenger, to the amazement of those 
before whom the demonstration was made. So far as is known that was 
the first locomotive to be built or run on a track in America. But even 
with Stevens's successful example, years passed before steam travel 
assumed a practical form. 
When the pioneer of Fifth Avenue wished to voyage far afield it was 
toward the stage-coach as a means of transportation that his mind 
turned, for the stage-coach was the only way by which a large portion 
of the population could accomplish overland journeys. To go to Boston, 
for example, the traveller from New York usually left by a steamboat 
that took him to Providence in about twenty-three hours, and travelled 
the remaining forty miles by coach. Five hours was needed for the
overland journey, and was considered amazing speed. By the year 1832 
the overland trip between New York and Boston had been reduced to 
forty-one hours. But the passengers were not allowed to break the 
journey at a tavern, even for four or five hours of sleep, as they had 
formerly done, but were carried forward night and day    
    
		
	
	
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