pass unless the laisser passer was produced. Some of those barriers 
were quite tricky affairs to drive through in a big ambulance, and 
reminded me of a gymkhana! It was quite usual in those days to be 
stopped by a soldier waiting on the road, who, with a gallant bow and 
salute, asked your permission to "mount behind" and have a lift to so 
and so. In fact, if you were on foot and wanted to get anywhere quickly 
it was always safe to rely on a military car or ambulance coming along, 
and then simply wave frantically and ask for a lift. Very much a case of 
share and share alike. 
We passed many regiments riding along, and very gay they looked with 
their small cocked caps and tassels that dangled jauntily over one eye 
(this was before they got into khaki). The regiments were either French 
or Belgian, for no British were in that sector at this time. Soon we 
arrived at the picturesque entry into Dunkirk, with its drawbridge and 
mediæval towers and grey city wall; here our passes were again 
examined, and there was a long queue of cars waiting to get through as 
we drew up. Once "across the Rubicon" we sped through the town and 
in time came to Furnes with its quaint old market place. Already the
place was showing signs of wear and tear. Shell holes in some of the 
roofs and a good many broken panes, together with the general air of 
desertion, all combined to make us feel we were near the actual fighting 
line. We learnt that bombs had been dropped there only that morning. 
(This was early in 1915, and since then the place has been reduced to 
almost complete ruin.) We sped on, and could see one of the famous 
coastal forts on the horizon. So different from what one had always 
imagined a fort would look like. "A green hill far away," seems best to 
describe it, I think. It wasn't till one looked hard that one could see 
small dark splotches that indicated where the cannon were. 
A Belgian whom we were "lifting" ("lorry jumping" is now the correct 
term!) pointed out to us a huge factory, now in English hands, which 
had been owned before the war by a German. Under cover of the 
so-called "factory" he had built a secret gun emplacement for a large 
gun, to train on this same fort and demolish it when the occasion arose. 
At this point we saw the first English soldiers that day in motor boats 
on the canal, and what a smile of welcome they gave us! 
Presently we came to lines of Belgian Motor transport drawn up at the 
sides of the road, car after car, waiting patiently to get on. Without 
exaggeration this line was a mile in length, and we simply had to crawl 
past, as there was barely room for a large ambulance on that narrow 
and excessively muddy road. The drivers were all in excellent spirits, 
and nodded and smiled as we passed--occasionally there was an 
officer's car sandwiched in between, and those within gravely saluted. 
About this time a very cheery Belgian artillery-man who was 
exchanging to another regiment, came on board and kept us highly 
amused. Souvenirs were the aim and end of existence just then, and he 
promised us shell heads galore when he came down the line. On 
leaving the car, as a token of his extreme gratitude, he pressed his 
artillery cap into our hands saying he would have no further need of it 
in his new regiment, and would we accept it as a souvenir! 
The roads in Belgium need some explaining for those who have not had 
the opportunity to see them. Firstly there is the _pavé_, and a very 
popular picture with us after that day was one which came out in the
Sketch of a Tommy in a lorry asking a haughty French dragoon to 
"Alley off the bloomin' pavee--vite." Well, this famous _pavé_ consists 
of cobbles about six inches square, and these extend across the road to 
about the width of a large cart--On either side there is mud--with a 
capital M, such as one doesn't often see--thick and clayey and of a 
peculiarly gluey substance, and in some places quite a foot deep. You 
can imagine the feeling at the back of your spine as you are squeezing 
past another car. If you aren't extremely careful plop go the side wheels 
off the "bloomin' pavee" into the mud beyond and it takes half the 
Belgian Army to help to heave you on to the "straight and narrow" path 
once more. 
It was just about this time we heard our first really heavy firing and it 
gave us a queer thrill to    
    
		
	
	
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