curses it as a mask for the old 
Federalist party, which tried to corrupt America with the British system, 
after it had failed as a combination of Loyalists to keep America under 
the dominion of Great Britain.... This is all a maze to me, at least so far 
as the American application is concerned. Then the man with the 
goatee assails New England, and calls her the devotee of the soured 
gospel of envy which covers its wolf face of hate with the lamb's 
decapitated head of universal brotherhood and slavery abolition. Surely 
there is much strife in America.... Also again President Jackson, the 
tariff, and the force bill! And will South Carolina secede from the 
Union on account of the unjust and lawless tariff? New England tried to 
secede once when the run of affairs did not suit her. Why not South 
Carolina, then, if she chooses? Another man is reading a book of poems 
and talking at intervals to a companion. I hear him say that a Mr. Willis 
is one of the world's greatest poets. I glance at the book and see the 
name Nathaniel Parker Willis. Also it seems Willis is the editor of one 
of the world's greatest literary journals. It is published in New York and 
is called the New York Mirror.... It is all so strange. Is it true that in this 
country, so far from England, there are men who are the equals of 
Shelley and Byron, or of Tennyson, whose first book has given me 
such delight recently?... 
We near the journey's end. At Lockport we are lifted up the precipice 
over which the Falls of Niagara pour some miles distant. We are now 
on a level with Lake Erie, to which we have climbed by many locks 
and lifts over the hills since we left Albany. Soon we travel along the 
side of the Niagara River; quickly we drift into Buffalo.
CHAPTER V 
Buffalo, they told me, had about 15,000 people. I wished to see 
something of it before departing for the farther west. For should I ever 
come this way again? I started from the dock, but immediately found 
myself surrounded by runners and touters lauding the excellences of the 
boats to which they were attached. The harbor was full of steamboats 
competing for trade.... They rang bells, let off steam, whistled. Bands 
played. Negroes ran here and there, carrying freight and baggage. The 
air was vibrating with yells and profanity.... But I made my escape and 
walked through the town. It had broad streets, lovely squares, 
substantial and attractive buildings and residences. And there was Lake 
Erie, blue and fresh, rippling under the brilliant May sun. I had never 
seen anything remotely approximating Lake Erie.... "How large is it?" I 
inquired of a passerby. I was told that it was 60 miles wide and 250 
miles long. Could it be true? Was there anything in all of Europe to 
equal it? I could not for the moment remember the extent of the 
Caspian Sea. And I stood in wonder and delight. 
As I left the dock for my walk I had observed the name Illinois on a 
boat that had all the appearances of being brand new. I walked leisurely 
toward the dock so as to avoid the touters as much as possible while I 
was overlooking the boat. I liked it, but would it take me to Chicago? 
The gangplank was lying on the dock and near it stood what seemed to 
me to be the captain and the pilot, around them touters and others. I 
edged around to the captain and asked him if the Illinois would take me 
to Chicago. "In about an hour," he said with a laugh. Immediately I was 
besieged by the runners to help me on, to get my baggage, to serve me 
in all possible ways. I couldn't hire all of them. I chose one, who got 
my valise for me, and I went aboard. 
It was a new boat, and this was its maiden trip. All the stewards, 
negroes, waiters were brisk and obliging, and bent on making the trip 
an event. The captain gave parties. He was a bluff, kindly man, who 
mingled much with favorite passengers. Wine flowed freely. The food 
was abundant and delicious. We had dances by moonlight on the deck. 
A band played at dinner and at night. The boat was distinguished for
many quaint and interesting characters. I enjoyed it all, but made no 
friends. I did not understand this free and easy manner of life. The 
captain noted me, and asked if I was well placed and comfortable. 
Various people opened conversations with me. But I was shy, and I was 
English. I could not unbend. I did not desire to do so. 
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