After The Storm | Page 8

say
that I have found more liberal ideas and more sound philosophy among individuals of
that nation than among those of any other, and it is a tribute I owe to them loudly to
proclaim my sentiments; for though personal gratitude may seem to influence me a little
on this subject, yet I should never think of putting forth my opinion in public, were it not
founded on an impartial observation of the character of this enterprising and persevering
people. A woman who had some Highlanders quartered in her house told me in speaking
of them: "Monsieur, ce sont de si bonnes gens; ils sont doux comme des agneaux." "Ils
n'en seront pas moins des lions an jour du combat," was my reply.
I have amused myself with visiting most of the remarkable objects here, but you must not
expect from me a detail of what you will find in every description book. You wish to
have my ideas on the subjects that most strike me individually, and those you shall have;
but it would be very absurd and presumptuous in me to attempt to give a catalogue
raisonné of buildings and pictures and statues, or to set up as a connoisseur when I know
nothing either of sculpture, of architecture or painting; nor am I desirous of imitating the
young Englishman, who, in writing to his father from Italy, described so much in detail,
and so scientifically, every production, or staple, peculiar to the cities which he happened
to visit, that he wrote like a cheese-monger from Parma, like a silk mercer from Leghorn,
like an olive and oil merchant from Lucca, like a picture dealer from Florence, and like
an antiquarian from Rome.
BRUXELLES, May 10.
The Hôtel d'Angleterre where we are lodged is within four minutes walk from the finest
part of the city, where the Parc and Royal Palace is situated. The Parc is not large, but is

tastefully laid out in the Dutch style, and is the fashionable promenade for the beau
monde of Bruxelles. The women, without being strikingly handsome, have much grace;
their air, manner and dress are perfectly à la francaise. A good café and restaurant is in
the centre of one of the sides, and the buildings on the quadrangle environing the Parc,
which form the palace and other tenements are superb. The next place I went to see was
the Hôtel de Ville and its tower of immense height. It is a fine Gothic building, but that
which should be the central entrance is not directly in the centre of the edifice, so that one
wing of it appears considerably larger than the other, which gives it an awkward and
irregular appearance. On the Place or Square as we should call it, where the Hôtel de
Ville stands, is held the fruit and vegetable market, and a finer one or more plentifully
supplied I never beheld. This Place is interesting to the historian as being the spot where
Counts Egmont and Hoorn suffered decapitation in the reign of Philip II of Spain, by
order of the Duke of Alva, who witnessed the execution from a window of one of the
houses. The conduct of these noblemen at the place of execution was so dignified that
even the ferocious duke could not avoid wiping his eyes, hardened as his heart was by
religious and political fanaticism; and though he held them in abhorrence as rebels and
traitors a tear did fall for them down his iron cheek. How fortunate for the liberties of
Holland that William the Taciturn did not also fall into the claws of that Moloch Philip! I
next visited the museum and picture gallery, where I witnessed the annual exposition of
the modern school of painting. The specimens I saw pleased me much, particularly
because the subjects were well chosen from history and the mythology, which to me is far
more agreeable than the subjects of the paintings of the old Flemish school; but I am told
often that I know nothing about painting, so I shall make no further remarks but content
myself with sending you a catalogue, with the pictures marked therein which made most
impression on me. With respect to the churches of Brussels those of Ste. Gudule and of
the Capuchins are the finest and most remarkable. In the former is the Temptation of
Adam by the Serpent, richly carved in wood in figures as large as life grouped round the
pulpit.[4]
The Place du Sablon is very striking from the space it occupies, and on it is a fountain
erected by Lord Bruce.[5] The fountains which are to be met with in various parts of the
city are highly ornamental, and among them I must not omit to mention a singularly
grotesque one which