A Winter Tour in South Africa | Page 2

Volksraad--President Paul
Kruger--High Court of Justice--Want of Railroads--Growing
Prosperity--Post Office--New Government Buildings--Political and
Social Life--Pretoria Races 60-65
WATERBURG.--Polonia--Hebron--Salt Pans--Kafirs--Appearance of
the Country--Prospects of Gold--Scarcity of Game--Bush Fire--Narrow
Escape--Transport Driver--Waterburg Sulphur Baths--Nylstroom
Road--Return to Pretoria 66-78

PRETORIA TO NATAL.--Coach to Johannesburg--Post Cart
Travelling--Richmond--Heidelburg--Standerton--Newcastle--Eland's
Laagte--Natal Railway--Coal Fields--Laing's Nek--Majuba
Hill--Ingogo--Scenery of Natal 79-82
MARITZBURG.--Public Buildings--House of Assembly--Statue of the
Queen--British Troops 83-84
DURBAN.--Railway Journey--Town Hall--Municipal
arrangements--Trade--Harbour Works--The "Berea"--Natal Central
Sugar Company's Manufactory--Trappist Establishment at Marion
Hill--Defences--Embark for Port Elizabeth 85-96
PORT ELIZABETH.--Trade--Town Hall--Public Library--Ostrich
Feathers--The "Hill"--Botanical Garden--Hospital--Water
Supply--Churches--Presentation of an address 97-101
GRAHAMSTOWN.--Railway Journey--Scenery--Botanical
Gardens--Mountain Road--Museum--The Prison--Kafir
School--Ostrich Farm at Heatherton Towers--Export of Feathers
102-105
PORT ELIZABETH TO CAPE TOWN.--Scenery--Hex River
Pass--Arrival at Cape Town--Lecture at Young Men's Christian
Society--Start for England--Arrival at Southampton 106-108
CLIMATE. 109-112
THE NATIVE QUESTION. 113-116
RAILWAYS. 117-122
COLONISATION. 123-127
THE POLITICAL SITUATION. 128-148
APPENDIX:--
I. Discussion on a Paper entitled "A Winter Tour in South Africa," by

Sir Frederick Young, at the Royal Colonial Institute 149-163
II. Lecture on Imperial Federation delivered at Cape Town 164-173

[Illustration: Decorative]
THE VOYAGE.
On the 3rd of May last, I left Southampton in the s.s. Spartan for Cape
Town. This three weeks' ocean voyage has become one of the most
enjoyable it is possible to take by those who are seeking health or
pleasure on the sea. The steamers of the great companies, which carry
on so admirably the weekly communication between England and
South Africa, are so powerful, handsome, and commodious, their
captains and crews are so attentive and obliging, their food and cabin
accommodation so ample and luxurious, that it seems impossible for
anyone, excepting a confirmed grumbler, to find any reasonable fault
with any of their arrangements, where all are so good. Passengers will
select the particular vessel by which they desire to travel, rather by the
convenience of the date fixed for sailing, than from any particular
choice of the name of the steamer, either belonging to the Castle Mail
Packet Company, the Union Steamship Company, or any other line.
A sea voyage of the kind I have recently taken does not give
opportunity for much striking incident, or exciting variety. If restful
and pleasant to those who are escaping for a while from the bustle and
turmoil of life on shore, it is at all events bound to be somewhat
monotonous, in spite of the many amusements which are daily arranged,
including cricket, tennis, quoits, concerts, dances, etc., of which I
experienced a fair share. On many occasions I was called upon to
preside at concerts, lectures, etc., not only amongst the saloon
passengers, but also in the third class cabin. A rough voyage across the
Bay of Biscay, a view of the Tagus, a brief run on shore to look at the
picturesque capital of Portugal, a gaze at the spot, which marks the
memory of the scene of the fearful earthquake of 1755, which
destroyed most of the town, and 50,000 of its inhabitants; a short stay

at the lovely island of Madeira, sufficient to glance at its beautiful
scenery, to breathe its balmy air, to taste its delicious fruits, and to land
at its pretty town of Funchal, to see some of its charming surroundings;
a passing peep at Teneriffe, which is now receiving so much attention
in Europe as an attractive health resort; a few days' run of exhausting
heat through the tropics; a visit to Saint Helena, enough to allow of a
drive to Longwood, and a look at the room, where the first Napoleon
breathed his last--leaving there the legacy of the shadow of a mighty
name to all time--on this "lonely rock in the Atlantic"; a few days more
of solitary sailing over a stormy sea, a daily look-out for whales,
porpoises, dolphins, flying fish, sharks, and albatrosses; a glance
upward, night after night, into the starry sky, to gaze on the Southern
Cross, so much belauded, and yet so disappointing in its appearance,
after the extravagant encomiums lavished on it; and at length, on the
early morning of May 24, I safely reached Cape Town.
[Illustration: Decorative]

[Illustration: Decorative]
CAPE TOWN.
To produce the most favourable impression of any new place, it is
essential that it should be seen for the first time in fine weather. Places
look so very different under a canopy of cloud, and, perhaps, a deluge
of rain, or when they are bathed in the sunshine of a beautiful day.
Happily for me, my first view of Cape Town was under the latter genial
aspect. I need scarcely say, that I was, in consequence, quite charmed
with my first sight of this celebrated town, the seat of Government of
the Cape Colony. What made the scene more than usually striking to a
traveller, fresh from the sea, was, that it was the Queen's birthday,