Morocco | Page 3

Minstrel 94 38.
The Roofs of Marrakesh 100 39. A Gateway, Marrakesh 104 40. A
Courtyard, Marrakesh 108 41. A Well in Marrakesh 112 42. A Bazaar,
Marrakesh 114 43. A Brickfield, Marrakesh 116 44. A Mosque,
Marrakesh 120 45. A Water Seller, Marrakesh 124 46. On the Road to
the Sôk el Abeed 126 47. The Slave Market 128 48. Dilals in the Slave
Market 132 49. On the House-top, Marrakesh 138 50. A House Interior,
Marrakesh 142 51. A Glimpse of the Atlas Mountains 146 52. A
Marrakshi 150 53. Street in Marrakesh 154 54. An Arab Steed 158 55.
A Young Marrakshi 162 56. Fruit Market, Marrakesh 164 57. In the
Fandak 166 58. The Jama'a Effina 170 59. Evening in Camp 178 60.
Preparing Supper 182 61. A Goatherd 186 62. Coming from the
Mosque, Hanchen 190 63. Evening at Hanchen 198 64. On the Road to
Argan Forest 202 65. The Snake Charmer 204 66. In Camp 206 67. A
Countryman 208 68. Moonlight 212 69. A Moorish Girl 216 70. A
Narrow Street in Mogador 218 71. Night Scene, Mogador 220 72.
House Tops, Mogador 222 73. Selling Grain in Mogador 224 74.
Selling Oranges 226
_The Illustrations in this volume have been engraved in England by the
Hentschel Colourtype Process._

BY CAPE SPARTEL

[Illustration: A SHEPHERD, CAPE SPARTEL]
CHAPTER I
BY CAPE SPARTEL
Over the meadows that blossom and wither Rings but the note of a
sea-bird's song, Only the sun and the rain come hither All year long.
_The Deserted Garden._
Before us the Atlantic rolls to the verge of the "tideless, dolorous inland
sea." In the little bay lying between Morocco's solitary lighthouse and
the famous Caves of Spartel, the waters shine in colours that recall in
turn the emerald, the sapphire, and the opal. There is just enough breeze
to raise a fine spray as the baby waves reach the rocks, and to fill the
sails of one or two tiny vessels speeding toward the coast of Spain.
There is just enough sun to warm the water in the pools to a point that
makes bathing the most desirable mid-day pastime, and over land and
sea a solemn sense of peace is brooding. From where the tents are set
no other human habitation is in sight. A great spur of rock, with the
green and scarlet of cactus sprawling over it at will, shuts off
lighthouse and telegraph station, while the towering hills above hide
the village of Mediunah, whence our supplies are brought each day at
dawn and sun-setting.
Two fishermen, clinging to the steep side of the rock, cast their lines
into the water. They are from the hills, and as far removed from our
twentieth century as their prototypes who were fishing in the sparkling
blue not so very far away when, the world being young, Theocritus
passed and gave them immortality. In the valley to the right, the
atmosphere of the Sicilian Idylls is preserved by two half-clad
goatherds who have brought their flock to pasture from hillside
Mediunah, in whose pens they are kept safe from thieves at night. As
though he were a reincarnation of Daphnis or Menalcas, one of the
brown-skinned boys leans over a little promontory and plays a tuneless

ghaitah, while his companion, a younger lad, gives his eyes to the flock
and his ears to the music. The last rains of this favoured land's brief
winter have passed; beyond the plateau the sun has called flowers to
life in every nook and cranny. Soon the light will grow too strong and
blinding, the flowers will fade beneath it, the shepherds will seek the
shade, but in these glad March days there is no suggestion of the
intolerable heat to come.
[Illustration: THE COURT-YARD OF THE LIGHTHOUSE, CAPE
SPARTEL]
On the plot of level ground that Nature herself has set in position for a
camp, the tents are pitched. Two hold the impedimenta of travel; in the
third Salam and his assistant work in leisurely fashion, as befits the
time and place. Tangier lies no more than twelve miles away, over a
road that must be deemed uncommonly good for Morocco, but I have
chosen to live in camp for a week or two in this remote place, in
preparation for a journey to the southern country. At first the tents were
the cynosure of native eyes. Mediunah came down from its fastness
among the hilltops to investigate discreetly from secure corners,
prepared for flight so soon as occasion demanded it, if not before.
Happily Salam's keen glance pierced the cover of the advance-guard
and reassured one and all. Confidence established, the village agreed
after much solemn debate to supply eggs, chickens, milk, and
vegetables at prices doubtless in excess of those