Letters from the Cape | Page 2

Lady Duff Gordon
wrong; and the confusion and disorder are
beyond description. The ship's officers are very good fellows. The
mizen is entirely worked by the 'young gentlemen'; so we never see the
sailors, and, at present, are not allowed to go forward. All lights are put
out at half-past ten, and no food allowed in the cabin; but the latter
article my friend Avery makes light of, and brings me anything when I

am laid up. The young soldier-officers bawl for him with expletives;
but he says, with a snigger, to me, 'They'll just wait till their betters, the
ladies, is looked to.' I will write again some day soon, and take the
chance of meeting a ship; you may be amused by a little scrawl, though
it will probably be very stupid and ill-written, for it is not easy to see or
to guide a pen while I hold on to the table with both legs and one arm,
and am first on my back and then on my nose. Adieu, till next time. I
have had a good taste of the humours of the Channel.
29th July, 4 Bells, i.e. 2 o'clock, p.m.--When I wrote last, I thought we
had had our share of contrary winds and foul weather. Ever since, we
have beaten about the bay with the variety of a favourable gale one
night for a few hours, and a dead calm yesterday, in which we almost
rolled our masts out of the ship. However, the sun was hot, and I sat
and basked on deck, and we had morning service. It was a striking sight,
with the sailors seated on oars and buckets, covered with signal flags,
and with their clean frocks and faces. To-day is so cold that I dare not
go on deck, and am writing in my black-hole of a cabin, in a green light,
with the sun blinking through the waves as they rush over my port and
scuttle. The captain is much vexed at the loss of time. I persist in
thinking it a very pleasant, but utterly lazy life. I sleep a great deal, but
don't eat much, and my cough has been bad; but, considering the real
hardship of the life--damp, cold, queer food, and bad drink--I think I
am better. When we can get past Finisterre, I shall do very well, I doubt
not.
The children swarm on board, and cry unceasingly. A passenger-ship is
no place for children. Our poor ship will lose her character by the
weather, as she cannot fetch up ten days' lost time. But she is evidently
a race-horse. We overhaul everything we see, at a wonderful rate, and
the speed is exciting and pleasant; but the next long voyage I make, I'll
try for a good wholesome old 'monthly' tub, which will roll along on
the top of the water, instead of cutting through it, with the waves
curling in at the cuddy skylights. We tried to signal a barque yesterday,
and send home word 'all well'; but the brutes understood nothing but
Russian, and excited our indignation by talking 'gibberish ' to us; which
we resented with true British spirit, as became us.

It is now blowing hard again, and we have just been taken right aback.
Luckily, I had lashed my desk to my washing-stand, or that would have
flown off, as I did off my chair. I don't think I shall know what to make
of solid ground under my feet. The rolling and pitching of a ship of this
size, with such tall masts, is quite unlike the little niggling sort of work
on a steamer--it is the difference between grinding along a bad road in a
four-wheeler, and riding well to hounds in a close country on a good
hunter. I was horribly tired for about five days, but now I rather like it,
and never know whether it blows or not in the night, I sleep so soundly.
The noise is beyond all belief; the creaking, trampling, shouting,
clattering; it is an incessant storm. We have not yet got our masts quite
safe; the new wire-rigging stretches more than was anticipated (of
course), and our main-topmast is shaky. The crew have very hard work,
as incessant tacking is added to all the extra work incident to a new
ship. On Saturday morning, everybody was shouting for the carpenter.
My cabin was flooded by a leak, and I superintended the baling and
swabbing from my cot, and dressed sitting on my big box. However, I
got the leak stopped and cabin dried, and no harm done, as I had put
everything up off the floor the night before, suspicious of a dribble
which came in. Then my cot frame was broken by my cuddy boy and I
lurching over against
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