a vast expanse of sea, just visible by the gleamings of the
moon, bathed in watery clouds; a chill air ruffled the waves. I went to 
shiver a few melancholy moments on the shore. How often did I try to 
wish away the reality of my separation from those I love, and attempt 
to persuade myself it was but a dream! 
This morning I found myself more cheerfully disposed, by the queer 
Dutch faces with short pipes and ginger-bread complexions that came 
smirking and scraping to get us on board their respective vessels; but, 
as I had a ship engaged for me before, their invitations were all in vain. 
The wind blows fair; and, should it continue of the same mind a few 
hours longer, we shall have no cause to complain of our passage. Adieu! 
Think of me sometimes. If you write immediately, I shall receive your 
letter at the Hague. 
It is a bright sunny evening: the sea reflects a thousand glowing colours, 
and, in a minute or two, I shall be gliding on its surface. 
 
LETTER II 
 
OSTEND, June 21st. 
T'other minute I was in Greece, gathering the bloom of Hymettus, but 
now I am landed in Flanders, smoked with tobacco, and half poisoned 
with garlic. Were I to remain ten days at Ostend, I should scarcely have 
one delightful vision; 'tis so unclassic a place--nothing but preposterous 
Flemish roofs disgust your eyes when you cast them upwards; 
swaggering Dutchmen and mongrel barbers are the principal objects 
they meet with below. I should esteem myself in luck, were the 
nuisances of this seaport confined only to two senses; but, alas! the 
apartment above my head proves a squalling brattery, and the sounds 
which proceed from it are so loud and frequent, that a person might 
think himself in limbo, without any extravagance. 
Am I not an object of pity, when I tell you that I was tormented 
yesterday by a similar cause? But I know not how it is; your violent
complainers are the least apt to excite compassion. I believe, 
notwithstanding, if another rising generation should lodge above me at 
the next inn, I shall grow as scurrilous as Dr. Smollett, and be dignified 
with the appellation of the Younger Smelfungus. Well, let those make 
out my diploma that will, I am determined to vent my spleen, and like 
Lucifer, unable to enjoy comfort myself, tease others with the details of 
my vexatious. You must know, then, since I am resolved to grumble, 
that, tired with my passage, I went to the Capuchin church, a large 
solemn building, in search of silence and solitude; but here again was I 
disappointed. Half-a-dozen squeaking fiddles fugued and flourished 
away in the galleries, and as many paralytic monks gabbled before the 
altars, while a whole posse of devotees, in long white hoods and 
flannels, were sweltering on either side. 
Such piety, in warm weather, was no very fragrant circumstance; so I 
sought the open air again as fast as I was able. The serenity of the 
evening, joined to the desire I had of casting another glance over the 
ocean, tempted me to the ramparts. There, at least, thought I to myself, 
I may range undisturbed, and talk with my old friends the breezes, and 
address my discourse to the waves, and be as romantic and whimsical 
as I please; but it happened that I had scarcely begun my apostrophe, 
before out flaunted a whole rank of officers, with ladies and abbes and 
puppy dogs, singing, and flirting, and making such a hubbub, that I had 
not one peaceful moment to observe the bright tints of the western 
horizon, or enjoy the series of antique ideas with which a calm sunset 
never fails to inspire me. 
Finding, therefore, no quiet abroad, I returned to my inn, and should 
have gone immediately to bed, in hopes of relapsing into the bosom of 
dreams and delusions; but the limbo I mentioned before grew so very 
outrageous, that I was obliged to postpone my rest till sugar-plums and 
nursery eloquence had hushed it to repose. At length peace was 
restored, and about eleven o'clock I fell into a slumber, during which 
the most lovely Sicilian prospects filled the eye of my fancy. I 
anticipated the classic scenes of that famous island, and forgot every 
sorrow in the meadows of Enna.
Next morning, awakened by the sunbeams, I arose quite refreshed by 
the agreeable impressions of my dream, and filled with presages of 
future happiness in the climes which had inspired them. No other idea 
but such as Trinacria and Naples suggested, haunted me whilst 
travelling to Ghent. I neither heard the vile Flemish dialect which was 
talking around me, nor noticed formal avenues and marshy country 
which we passed. When we stopped to    
    
		
	
	
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